ON THE MOVE AGAIN March 2012

Joan arrived from Perth on a late afternoon flight on the 8th of April. We spent several days showing her the sights before heading south to Langkawi once again. Our route took us to Koh Pan Yi, the Moslem stilt village at the top of Phang Nga Bay. From here we sailed south along the eastern side of the bay, stopping at Railay Beach for a wonderful dinner ashore amongst the picturesque and spectacular limestone karst formations, famous in this region. 

We snorkeled at the Bamboo Group, just north and east of Phi Phi Don before heading to anchor for the night at Phi Phi Don on the north western side. The snorkeling is quite good here on a good day! There are lots of fish but sadly the coral is quite degraded. Our next stop was Koh Lantas northern anchorage where we went ashore to partake of the local delicacies at a quiet river front restaurant. Joan did a bit of tourist shopping before we made our way back to Taipan. The highlight of her trip was the visit to Koh Muk and the Emerald Cave.  The inside of the cave was lit with the lovely green light for which the cave is named.

Joan and David off to explore the hong.

The weather was great, with only a small shower for her whole visit.

Koh Kradan, Koh Bulon Li, for a swim, and Taratao, where we had our farewell Thailand, anchorage, then on via Hole in the Wall to Kuah town on Langkawi Island.
In Kuah we hired a car to do the sights for a day then on to Rebak Island Marina to pack up Taipan and ready her so we could fly out to Australia.

At the Moslem Stilt village

On the 16th of April we flew together to Perth via KL. The first few days were taken up almost exclusively, with visits to various of Davids specialists to determine the progress of his recovery following treatment for prostate cancer. All reports were very pleasing with significant reduction in PSA and a positive prognosis. Upon receipt of this good news we were finally able to start planning for the next passage.

 We first spent a week with family in Albany before Tim and Vanessa's wedding at Narrikup on the 28th. It was a great day spent in Steven and Kerry's beautiful garden. Almost all the family were there so we caught up with everyone's news. On Sunday, the day following, we had to head back to Perth to drop the car and be at the airport at first light on Monday the 30th April.

Lucky we didn't delay our return. When we arrived aboard we discovered that the solar panels had shut down so the batteries were flat and the fridge and freezer were pretty off. A few extra days would have been horrific!. We didn't loose everything. All the meats I had vacuum sealed with my trusty Sumbeam were fine. The big piece of commercially packed Tenderloin....it had to go though. Sigh!

I took a couple of days to recharge everything and get the fridge and freezer working and cool again. A bit of shopping was in order so we vacated the Marina to anchor in Kuah town and hire a car. Several more days of provisioning and a very welcome and long overdue catch up with Jack and Norma on Egress ll ensured we had some good food and fine wine in great company. Monday the 7th a part we had been waiting on arrived so we left Kuah for Bidan Island just 17nm north of Penang.

We arrived in Straits Quay Marina on Wednesday with the radar not working and a long list of jobs. Thats usual. I am happy to report that after taking the entire Furuno system to pieces today, David discovered it had re programmed it self to use a different raydome!! Just a setting!!!. Now its going again! 

We'll be in Penang for a few days to get some small maintenance jobs done and then move on south to Pankor. 

The Indonesian Cruising Permit Application is in the pipeline and we are expecting formal notification of our permission to cruise there soon. We will stop in Singapore if we can get a berth at One Degree 15 Marina for a few days before making our way to Nongsa Point, Indonesia, to clear into the country. The loose plan is to cruise down through the islands to Belitung before clearing out and heading through Sunda Straits to Cocos Keeling 

Watch this space for the next leg in the trip. We really are on the move now.

RE-ENGINING IN BOAT MAROON. PHUKET 26th March 2012

Out with the old.

The frenzy of work on the hardstand is now behind us so now we are winding down a little in anticipation of the arrival of Joan, Davids 89 year old mum, for  a sailing trip to Langkawi. Joan has visited before and I understand she is really looking forward to the trip.

We are ticking off some of the items on a long list of jobs. They are never all "done". If we waited for that to happen we would never leave.

In with the new

The major jobs we have done are the engine refit and all the attendant sundry stuff that goes with that like extra alternator and damage control pump, replace the whole exhaust system and all the fuel lines, instal the new control panel and run the wiring for it. All this is pretty time consuming in the confines of a small yacht, in the awful heat and humidity at Boat "Maroon". 

The mast re paint was not quite as straight forward as we had hoped and as prices in Phuket have soared in the last year or so, we elected to paint it ourselves, after which we fitted some new halyards and sheaves before hoisting that back into position. 

Huck hard at it.

The inevitable bottom sanding and re anti-foulling was also achieved without too much outside "interference!!."  Needless to say, after a month on the hardstand and all that work we were seriously needing a break.

Huck arrived  and worked like a dog to get the engine installed in record time considering he had to start virtually from scratch inside. The engine beds were a little too high  and had to be lowered and the rails for the mounts had to be designed and then built at Luk Engineering in Phuket Town. This involved hundreds of kilometers in the trusty old Honda CRV we had rented. The structure on the front of the engine which houses the second alternator and a large Jabsco damage control pump really should be in the Louvre. Its a work of art and painted silver on the top and red on the underside....should we ever see the red ...we know we are in a lot of trouble!!

Installed

Huck and I were doing the final oil checks and filled the gear box whilst Taipan was in the lifter being carried to the water for re launching. It was a moment of great excitement and pleasure for Huck to hit the key after final checks and the new engine roared into life without a single splutter.... Huck always said it would!!!

After hauling on the 27th of Jan , Huck arrived on 8th of Feb, Karen arrived on the 15th of Feb and we relaunched on the 23rd of Feb so it was a pretty good effort considering three of us did all the work with the exception of the sanding of the hull. 

Splash down

       .

Never again will we go to Boat Lagoon and we would never recommend it to any one else. It was one of the most awful haul-out experiences we have ever had! 

The only highlight of the whole experience was making the acquaintance of Sue and Rex Whistler, new owners of "ARIEL" the beautiful Morgan next to us. Thank you for the beers and for your endless good humor and for keeping us sane!!!

Time for a rest.

The trip to Langkawi with Huck and Karen was uneventful if a little hurried and all systems worked flawlessly. It was often windless so the new engine got a thorough work out and we had a lovely restful time stopping at Koh Hong, Hen n Chicken, Koh Muk, Tatatao and then into Rebak Marina. A couple of days were spent enjoying the pleasures of Langkawi before they flew off to Penang for a real rest at the E & O Hotel, and then back to Perth.

Huck

David and I then made our way back to Phuket to finish off a few projects and await Joan's arrival.
Since arriving back in Yacht Haven Marina Phuket we have installed the new fiberglass companionway stairs, refurbished the anchor rollers, fitted big chain plates on the stern to attach the Jordan Series Drouge if we ever need to deploy it...I hope not! Sundry sewing jobs have been started and finished and now the galley calls for provisioning. Marmalade made, vacuum sealing, freezing and drying in progress.

We hope to clear out of Phuket and head south next week. Joan David and I will all fly out of Langkawi to KL on the 16th of April before heading back to Perth for Tim and Vanessa's wedding on the 28th in Albany.

AGROUND! BOAT MAROON.Janurary 27th 2012

New Orca Windlass installation.

The lead up to this haul out has been hectic to say the least. Since we arrived back aboard Taipan on new Years Eve we have had the deck painting completed on schedule and we moved to a "normal" pen from the "work dock" which was a total joy!

The deck and cockpit look great. The new anchor winch was the next project which had to be completed before departure. It took a week or so to get the anchor windlass, deck fittings and gear back on and then we were able to head out towards Boat Lagoon. We had two nights on anchor before the onslaught begins again. When we left the marina all was well until anchor o'clock... suddenly neither of the depths sounders were working so it was back to the trusty string and sinker. 

Dont you just love it when you are motoring gently along on a windless day enjoying a day away from the dock when a big fat stink boat (aka "Moon Sand") comes by at 15 knots and the bow wave is 6 feet high! High enough to put about 200 gal below deck and drench me while um standing on the foredeck trying to shut hatches!!!. Do they use brick designers to design these monstrosities!!!.

Oh well I got the hatches over the chart table shut in time to prevent two computers getting drowned!

Our anchorage was a little exposed because we were being cautious but managed to have a nice couple of days rest. 

Before we left to head in to Boat Lagoon Marina we managed to get the 2 depths sounders working and I loaded the new CMap, Mapmedia derived Charts which were supplied by Furuno as replacements for the Navionics Mapmedia derived charts which we purchased and which were  totally useless. I am very happy to report that the new ones look great. Suddenly we can actually use the Furuno Navnet 3 D plotter!. Just as well because the trusty Garmin which has been with us for 10 years has finally started to get screen failure. How timely!

David had blood tests recently and the medico back in OZ is very pleased with them. He is getting fitter and stronger as each long weary day goes by. His driving is deteriorating!

Since we hauled out for annual maintenance PLUS a few other odd jobs we have been hot sweaty dirty and busy. The mast came out to be repainted and serviced. That's one big and stressful job let me tell you! The painting sanding and repainting is on going and we try to do some on it in the early morning and late afternoon when its a little cooler. Average here is 32deg with 80% to 90% humidity so... yes!... you sweat...not just "glow" let me assure you!

The work begins

We get here to start each morning at about 6.20am and get several hours of shade which is a big incentive for such an early start.

From the other end.

The rest of the day at present is taken up with engine un-installation !! Yes the trusty Volvo MD 30A 65HP is being superseded by a new Yanmar 75HP Turbo. We have agonized over the decision for nearly a year and reluctantly decided to replace it instead of buy a few new parts.  The engine still runs and starts perfectly but some of the peripherals are dying. Starter motor, copper pipes, potentially the main diesel rotary pump may need service...lots of little things which would be easier repaired out of the boat but which added together with the 12,000hrs of great service don't add up financially. In five years it will be a 30 year old engine.  Any way the new engine in here in Phuket and we are awaiting the arrival of Huck... our great friend from OZ who generously offered to come and help with the installation if we went ahead with the purchase. Hes due next week!

We haven't bought a new gear box as it is not so old, so its a bobtail instal....???

Currently we are staying at the Akwaaba Hill Mansion with good friends Mike and Chris who have once again invited us to stay. The boat is not livable...the air con cant work on the hard stand....When Huck arrives we will move into a condo here at the Marina for a couple of weeks before we go SAILING..... hopefully! Thats what were here for after all!!

LIFE IN A BUBBLE December 2011

Plastic and tape...painting job.

We are tucked up back aboard Taipan in Yacht Haven marina Phuket, albeit inside a big plastic bubble with paint fumes. Our painter permitted us to go aboard to kick out 2011 and welcome in 2012. We had a quiet night aboard for the first night in three and a half months. It was midst a fug of mold and closed up boat smell that we savored a good bottle of red and toasted the incoming year. Couldn't find the champs but no matter! The red worked well and we awoke  on new years day with a shocker head just to remind us were not quite up to all the partying we used to do.

Cheers

We flew out of Australia on the 21st only 7 days after the successful completion of Davids treatments. We had a few days each with Annamarie, Michael and Corinne and Andrew and Christine, all of whom spoiled us rotten. Andrew and Christine drove us to the airport and kindly offered to look after our car.

Chris and Mike, sailing friends in Phuket picked us up and welcomed us to their lovely hill mansion overlooking the bay. Several days rest and relaxation and then Xmas chaos reined!. 12 friends  to a wonderful sit down lunch and dinner with all the trimmings. Fabulous day and company and food by the pool with views to Phang Nga Bay.

View to Phang Nga Bay.

We have now settled down to life in the slow lane again...watching paint to dry. David of course cant be slowed down and the ampaphobic is "currently"....pardon the pun... tangled in wires, resistors, relays meters and stuff doing something technical to the fridge and freezer compressors which are apparently confused by the fans!!....??? I cook and clean!

The fridge and freezer were not keen to start when we got back as some old dust in the fans had got damp and they wouldn't start. Suffice to say its all good now the fridge man has been by!

I have banished most of the mold and damp smelly boat smells with concentrated bleach and am now working my way through the cupboards washing stuff.  Cruising life!

We hope to be finished with the paint business in about a week so we can get the boat back together to start the next jobs.....thru hulls and mast....and new engine....sigh. Might as well just slash a hole in all your pockets!!

Thanks to everyone for your support and good cheer during a trying 2011. Looking forward to sailing this year....somewhere...anywhere!

EXPLORING PHANG NGA BAY. August 2011

Brother Vernon arrived on the 24th from Perth to spend a few weeks with us so after topping up on some great Thai food we headed back out into beautiful Phang Nga Bay again. This time to explore some spots we've heard about but not been to yet.

First stop was at the northern Hong group where we anchored late on the 28th at Panak. Vern and Jo visited the area in January after our joint visit in Vietnam so we didn't go to Kho Pan Yi stilt village as they did that tour then. Off we stooged to the north east corner of the bay and in beautiful conditions we anchored at Chong Lat. Dingying upriver we found a healthy and productive oyster farming area. Some hard bargaining saw us loaded with fresh oysters for dinner. A young fisherman dropped by with a shark and some lovely prawns for a bargain so we had a good supply of local seafood laid in.

Hen and Chicken island again provided some lovely snorkeling before we headed upriver to Krabi. We intended to go right up to the town but chickend out after running onto a sand bank. The rising tide assisted in getting us off again quite quickly but the tide was nearly done so w elected to anchor at the Ferry jetty and take a taxi into town.

Krabi is a big sprawling place so we didn't see much but it certainly looks interesting. Thais do amazing things with traffic lights ....

A long tail bought us back to the dingy we had left tied to the ferry dock. With the tide now out it was easy to see where we grounded on the sand...there are lots of sand banks!!. Going up river would be possible but stressful! The anchorage just upriver from the jetty was very comfortable and the trip to the city by taxi was easy. It is possible to clear in and out of Thailand here and its a good spot to remember.

Headed to Bamboo group and snorkeled again. This time the conditions were excellent and it was thoroughly entertaining. Long Beach on the north east side of Phi Phi was our choice for anchorage overnight as the southwesterly swell was evident and Phi Phi anchorages doubtful. Long beach proved a good anchorage and the meal ashore was delicious. Perfect conditions.

Vern relaxing after a dive at Koh Rok Nok

Onward to Phi Phi Don where a visit to the bay would not be complete without cocktails on the beach at sundown and a good foot massage. We suffered for our desires though because Taipan rolled like a pig all night in the SW swell. Off at sparrows  for somewhere sheltered....Rok Nok! Ok so it is a bit more distance south but the swell wont get into the channel at this angle!

It was a long sail / motor and conditions were not that great. There was less than 2 miles visibility, the worst we have seen in Thailand.  We did however catch a nice Spanish Mackerel and a Dorado, so more fresh fish to keep us going. Anchored in the chanel we had a reasonable night sleep and lo and behold the morning was heavenly. One of those really lovely days. Donned our gear and even broke out the hookah to head off to the north eastern side for a dive. The water was the clearest I had ever seen in Thailand! Absolutly fabulous. Vern was pretty impressed with the amount of live coral after recently diving in Honduras.

Thursday morning we reluctantly headed out to Koh Lanta Old Town on the south east side. The weather was still gorgeous but we needed to keep moving. Friday we hired motorbikes and rode the island roads to Saladan at the top end. Had lunch and toured around. Very easy place to ride a bike as there is no bridge to the island so the vehicle traffic is quite limited.

Left Lanta early on Saturday to head back to Yacht Haven. Sailed 60 NM in two legs all the way to the northern tip of Koh Noi. Was probably one of the best sailing days we've had in the Bay in 5 years!

Sunday we had another leisurely sail into Yacht Haven Marina in time for dinner at Coconuts.

Monday we hired a car and set off to explore the east coast. Laem Sak fish restaurant happened to be our first stop and we realized that this was the village adjacent to our anchorage at Chong Lat the previous week. We had a seafood meal at the jetty restaurant which was very nice and continued on towards Krabi and Ao Nang. Spent the night at Viewson bungalows on the beachfront. headed out early for breakfast in Krabi town and on towards Surat Thani.  diverted late in the day to Khao Sok national park and spent the night at Riverside Cottages. Rustic but comfortable. We were all really ill by Wednesday morning with some nasty gut bug...food or bug..don't know....! Anyway it was not an option to stay longer. We headed to Takua Pa to find a pharmacy and get drugs!!

Arrived back at Yacht Haven at 100pm and fell back into bed. Vern had to fly out at 1.00am Thursday morning so he got 8 hours recuperation on drugs before we took him to the airport and said our farewells. We improved fairly rapidly from midnight so I hope he did too!!

Sad to say goodbye

GREAT FROST CREW July 2011

Steven Tom and Hannah

Thursday 14th July. Stephen, Kerry, Tom and Hannah arrived on board fresh from a few days of luxury at Indigo Pearl. It was pouring rain and forecast to get worse. In one of the brief breaks in the deluge the dock boys came and threw of our lines and we motored out into the gloom. Well the gloom sort of lifted and we had a pleasant motor down the channel and decided to head on to Phanak for the night. It remained calm and although we had some rain it was cool and flat.

Kerry

Toms new friend

On Friday we headed out to the stilt village at Kho Pan Yai. 

The conditions were bad. Gusts up to high 40's but no sail up and protected water so we just leaned over!! A long tail took us ashore and we wandered the alleys and shopped in the shelter. Back aboard and high tailed it to the north east side of Kho Noi. Anchor down just in time. Another squall hit as 3 more yachts were attempting to get into the shelter. By dark everyone was settled in and safely anchored.

 
That was the last still night at anchor. Saturday we made our way via the Bamboo Group to Phi Phi Don. Ashore for dinner and cocktails and some shopping. Rolled like a pig all night. The wind went south!!! Un heard of! still we rolled. Some snorkeling and swimming before heading to the north anchorage. Visitors ashore for some shopping and massage while we motored round to the new anchorage.  It was reasonable so we went ashore for massage and cocktaiils etc as you do!!

Got back to Taipan at about ten PM and she was rolling as good as ever!. Fortunately it stopped about midnight so we were all able to get some sleep. At least it was fine and clear again.

Tuesday we arrived back at Yacht Haven to ferry the crew back to the Indigo Pearl for a well earned relax before departing to Perth on the late flight on Wednesday night.

What a great crew!

BUSY WITH VISITORS IN PHUKET July 2011

We have recently had a busy time with visitors here in Phuket. Ley Langford from Crystal Blues, currently based in Singapore, flew in for a four day visit and stayed aboard Taipan in Yacht Haven. We had a fat time eating Thai for breakfast lunch and dinner...well not quite breakfast but it was fun. We actually took the whole four days off and just drove about checking out developments and shopping. This is  the new Ao Po Marina hardstand. Its much easier to get into than Boat Lagoon and they use a Sealift machine instead of a Travel-lift so no overhead stuff. Looks promising for the future. 

L to R. Alan Jan David Tim Vanessa Mike Carole

On the 4th of July Tim and Vanessa, Davids son and his fiance, flew in from Australia for a two week break from their mining jobs in the North West. Vanessa's parents and Aunt and uncle were in Phuket too so we had a family day out up to Ko Pan Yai and back on Tuesday. 

Wednesday we all dashed into Phuket to do some provision shopping and then departed marina at 3pm for Ko Naka Yai about 11 Nm. The weather was lovely and it was great to be out into the Bay again.

Thursday morning after a brief swim and slow breakfast we made our way to Phi Phi Don arriving in the early afternoon. Two glorious days a Phi Phi with cocktails on the beach enjoying the afternoon sunset. Awesome Pizza and much fun at the fish doctor. Small fish attack your feet and nibble off all the dead skin. Sent Tim and Vanessa into paroxysms of giggles! On Thursday afternoon we hired a long tail for a run over to Phi Phi Lei. It was amazingly blue! but we have never seen so many tourists. Phi Phi Don was packed with people and boats.

Saturday we headed up to the Bamboo group for some snorkeling and after a short shower of rain we spent a couple of pleasant hours there before heading onto Hen and Chicken anchorage for the night.

Long Tails in Phi Phi Lei

Sunday morning paddle and swim and snorkel before heading west to Ko Yai to anchor for the night. We had a huge rain squall and were besieged by yachts seeking shelter just after we settled our pick. Its a roomy place though so there was no harassment. The squalls passed and the sky cleared for the night.

Monday has come all to quickly and we headed back to Yacht Haven for Tim and Vanessa to take a luxury break at the beautiful Indigo Pearl Resort at Nai Yang Beach not far from the marina. After they were settled in we caught up with Davids brother Steven, his wife Kerry and the two not so children, Hannah 13  and Tom nearly 18. They are also at Indigo Pearl and we are looking forward to them  joining us aboard Taipan later this week for a Phang Nga Bay adventure.

WOODY ELEPHANT TRAINING CHANG MAI February 2011

Returning to Chang Mai on the 8th we booked into the Anodard Hotel in the old town because it was closer to the center and cheaper and better rooms than BMP. We decided to do an elephant mahout training camp for 2 days and one night.

Woodys Elephant Training was chosen as it was recommended by Vern and Jo after their day there.( Website www.woodyelephanttraining.com

Email: humber3333@hotmail.com

Ph +66 815315363)

This is a family operation with only 8 elephants making it somewhat more personal. Woody picked us up at 8am the following morning and we drove north  for about an hour to the property. On arrival we were issued with elephant training clothes and hats and then instructed in elephant training language. We had a number of basic commands to learn before we could get started. Next we were introduced to the elephants and given mount and dismount lessons. No saddles an no stirrups so all about leg lifting and leaping and clawing your way aboard. Ears are a useful hand hold and the elephant, if inclined, and if you get the command right, will assist with some foot and knee raising maneuvers. Next was lunch. All the meals were sumptuous Thai Style but with consideration of western palates. Not too spicy but you could add your own to taste.

Mahouts for two days.

After lunch the 5 of us climbed aboard, 2 per elephant, and rode up the hillside to a lookout where we dismounted, that's polite for skidded and slid off ungracefully, to chop sugarcane to feed the elephants.  Here we swaped mahouts and we headed to the river to scrub and bath them. We all got soaked doing water fights, them with noses and us with buckets. After a good scrubbing and splashing about we climbed aboard again for a real underwater swim in the lake. This time the elephants went completely underwater with us on top!. It was tremendous fun and plenty of squealing and fooling about was had by all, especially the elephants.The end of the day involved feeding and chaining them for the night prior to our own feeding. After dinner we joined the real mahouts around the fire and tested some local delicacies from the fire then checked the herd and retired thankfully to our beds. Our room was splendid. No camping here!!. A huge room with en suite. Very early morning we arose to be involved in more bathing and scrubbing then breakfast for us and them. Then it was one by one all the herd had to be taken down to water to drink and only 3 tourists here now.

Great white hunter having a fat time!

The second day progressed in much the same way but with a little more experience under the belt and the elephants becoming more familiar, it became obvious that a week or so would be a lot of fun and there would be some chance of actually controlling the animal yourself. The "real" mahouts were never very far away when we were "controlling" our animals. There were no seats or saddles though so it was all bareback on the neck. Awesome. The best part of the trip and even David enjoyed it.!!

We went really swimming under water. That's David and I on the disappearing elephant in the middle!

 '

After our elephant farewell we were driven back to Anodard Hotel.  We relaxed round town for the next couple of days, enjoying the galleries and shops and food. Time comes eventually to consider heading back to Taipan in Miri. On the 12th we headed to the night train again to go down to Penang. Two nights !! Enough about trains! We had planned to go on from Penang to KL by train but gave up and caught a flight to KL and onward to Miri, arriving on the evening of  the 15th. We had been away a month but will need to go back again one day to see all the things we missed.

More Photos of Elephant Training 

CHANG MAI AND THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE February 2011

Tuk-tuk in Bangkok

On Tuesday 1st of February  Vern, Jo, David and I flew out of Ho Chi Min to Bangkok, caught the train into the city and a taxi to China Town. We stayed at China Town Inn  (Yaowaraj Rd Sampuntawong Bangkok.Ph +662225020315)  It is noticeably shabbier than the equivalent price hotels in Vietnam. China Town was fully dressed up and busy for Chinese New Year, Thai style. It was fun prowling the streets for 24 hours prior to departing on the night train to Chang Mai.

The train north  to Chang Mai left at 6pm evening and was due into Chang Mai at 7.20 am the next morning.  It would have been much better to have had bottom sleepers each. Instead, we had a top and a bottom per couple. Top berths in second class sleeper is very narrow. Bottom berth would be big enough for two at a pinch. Toilets….left a lot to be desired and the less said the better!!. Food aboard was pricey for Thailand but good quality. We arrived in Chang Mai and went to a hotel we had pre-booked with an agent at the train station. BMP Resident. +6653208822.   www bmpresident.com. Email: bmp_tourservice@yahoo.com.
First impression was a little dodgy but it was OK, the food was good and it was an easy walk into the Old Walled City.

We hired motorbikes again and set off with map to find the Air Asia office so Vern and Jo could organize flights to Patong for a few days R&R prior to heading back  home to work. That task accomplished there was a lot of cruising about the streets of the old town while we had bikes. You don't see much on a bike in town though because you don't stop. Just buzz by. However we were able to get some sense of the size of Chang Mai.

On the 4th of Feb Vern and Jo went off on an elephant trip for the day so we wandered the streets, found a number of lovely antique shops and galleries and organized a car for hire to drive to Chang Rai the following day.Jo and Vern returned gushing with excitement over their excursion so David and I decided to have a go at it when we got back from Chang Rai.

On the5th of Feb The car a Toyota Yaris, was delivered and we ferried Vern and Jo to the airport on our way out of town to drive north. It was sad to say farewell we had all had such a great time. Such a nice way to spend time together. No commitments of family or work just quality time such as you don't get when you visit home on return trips from the boat.

Leaving Chang Mai we drove north west towards Fang overnighting in  a small but pleasant hotel along the way. Next day we dawdled through towards Chang Rai passing through some spectacular mountain scenery. We stopped in a small village where the Lunar new Year festival was being celebrated by a number of different ethnic groups. Dancing chanting and eating we the order of the occasion and we were invited to participate.

Arriving in Chang Rai just before dark we spent some time looking for somewhere to stay. Our map was awful and we finally found Maekok Villa (445 Singhaclai Rd Chang Rai. Ph 053711786 Opposite the Overbrook Hospital) near the very center of town. It is very central and we had a very good room up stairs, clean and comfortable.US27. Maekok is an easy stroll round the corner from the Thailand Tourism Center and after arming ourselves with several maps and brochures we set off into the countryside to the north west of Chang Rai. A full day was spent driving round the mountainous roads to all sorts of dead ends at the Burma boarder. We stopped in outback hill villages, ate local fare and chatted to the locals. No one understanding a word the other was saying.

 

The area at this time of year is very dry and the air quality by afternoon is quite bad as the stalks from the harvested crops are being burned off in preparation for new plantings. its amazingly populated and cleared from the bottom of the steep gullies to the mountain ridges. One detour we did took us far out through dirt roads to an advertised Tea Plantation somewhere to the north west of Doi Mae Salong. It was called Chouifong Tea Plantation and established in 1979. It was a spectacular drive and the tea plantation is an impressive sight straddling as it does several mountainsides, gullies and ridges. To get there towards the end of the road we had to pass through an army encampment complete with huge camouflaged guns. The soldiers were however very friendly and waved us through. On our return they explained that the Burma boarder was only just down the spur about 100m. We could see a barracks of presumably Myanmar soldiers just on the next ridge!.

This area is still called the Golden Triangle but its notoriety as a big opiate area is past. Today the country is dotted with fruit trees, crops of rice, sunflower, and numerous things I couldn't put a name to. When you go on a tour you have a guide who will perhaps know the names and history but on your own you go places tours don't go. We think a little of both is a good balance. Before heading back to Chang Rai for the night we drove out to Mae Sai one of the official boarder crossings with Burma.

In all we  covered about 1200km and took in sights to the east and west of highway No.1. It would have been better to bus to Chang Rai and hire a car there. There is not a lot to see en-route and its quite a long journey.

More Photos of ChangMai and ChangRai 

LANGKAWI 28th October.2010

We didn't manage to get out of the Yacht Haven Marina till Tuesday and went straight to Phi Phi Don. Had a good sail but not fast enough to catch a fish. Wednesday morning  as we sailed out towards Rok Nok hoping for a snorkel, we looked back towards Phi Phi Lei to see this amazing water spout. The weather got stronger and wetter. We dodged lots of heavy showers with the aid of the new Radar but eventually had to sail through a big band of rain or take a long detour with no guarantee of avoiding it. The rain was so heavy the visibility was down to about 200m and with the Thai trawlers working in pairs its not comfortable when you cant see them. And we still don't know the new Radar well enough.

Just as we were hitting 8 and 9 kn the inevitable happened. Caught a fish! Fortunately a small enough one to land into the cockpit over the stern. A nice Dorado fish, or Mahi Mahi. We normally land fish on the deck on the side which necessitates getting the rod and line outside everything and up forward. Can be tricky in rough conditions.

We arrived at Rok Nok in clear but overcast conditions, picked up a sheltered mooring and set off for a snorkel. Not disappointed again. The reef is ordinary in the channel but the fish are prolific and varied.

Thursday was pleasant sailing and motor sailing to Telaga. We had just dropped the pic when we had a surprise visit from Carl and Kathleen off Silver Fin. A very pleasant and much welcome surprise lead to a good night aboard and lots to reminisce about.

We have heard there is some severe weather approaching so have decided to sit it out at Rebak and catch up with a few friends. Halloween Party tonight then we will see what the weather is dishing up before deciding whether or not to leave to head on south.

LEAVING PHUKET AGAIN.October 24th 2010

This is our 4th attempt to get away from here. Its not that we don't love it here, its just that other cruising destinations beckon. Taipan seems to have an invisible bungie attached and we keep ending up back here for a variety of reasons. The last reason was because Jason and family were arriving for a 3 week visit from Australia and here seemed the best place to meet them hence our return in September. Now its time to go again.

Tomorrow, Sunday the 24th of October we will toss the lines off and head to Borneo via Langkawi, Penang Port Klang, Port Dixon and the Pisang group of Islands. We should be in Singapore in about 2 weeks all going to plan. The "plan" is to spend several days in One Deg 15 Marina and then head direct to Mirri or KK in Malaysian Borneo. That will be about a 4 day sail with luck. Any takers???

We have had quite a lot of unscheduled work to do for one reason or another so it will be nice to get out and go sailing. We are always sad to farewell all our good friends here. Have done so now so many times I don't think they believe we will be gone long. We certainly plan to return sometime.