Aground! Boat Maroon

Janurary 27th Haulout Date.

New Orca Windlass installation.

The lead up  has been hectic to say the least. Since we arrived back aboard Taipan on new Years Eve we have had the deck painting completed on schedule and we moved to a "normal" pen from the "work dock" which was a total joy!

The deck and cockpit look great. The new anchor winch was the next project which had to be completed before departure. It took a week or so to get the anchor windlass, deck fittings and gear back on and then we were able to head out towards Boat Lagoon. We had two nights on anchor before the onslaught begins again. When we left the marina all was well until anchor o'clock... suddenly neither of the depths sounders were working so it was back to the trusty string and sinker. 

Dont you just love it when you are motoring gently along on a windless day enjoying a day away from the dock when a big fat stink boat (aka "Moon Sand") comes by at 15 knots and the bow wave is 6 feet high! High enough to put about 200 gal below deck and drench me while um standing on the foredeck trying to shut hatches!!!. Do they use brick designers to design these monstrosities!!!.

Oh well I got the hatches over the chart table shut in time to prevent two computers getting drowned!

Our anchorage was a little exposed because we were being cautious but managed to have a nice couple of days rest. 

Before we left to head in to Boat Lagoon Marina we managed to get the 2 depths sounders working and I loaded the new CMap, Mapmedia derived Charts which were supplied by Furuno as replacements for the Navionics Mapmedia derived charts which we purchased and which were  totally useless. I am very happy to report that the new ones look great. Suddenly we can actually use the Furuno Navnet 3 D plotter!. Just as well because the trusty Garmin which has been with us for 10 years has finally started to get screen failure. How timely!

David had blood tests recently and the medico back in OZ is very pleased with them. He is getting fitter and stronger as each long weary day goes by. His driving is deteriorating!

Since we hauled out for annual maintenance PLUS a few other odd jobs we have been hot sweaty dirty and busy. The mast came out to be repainted and serviced. That's one big and stressful job let me tell you! The painting sanding and repainting is on going and we try to do some on it in the early morning and late afternoon when its a little cooler. Average here is 32deg with 80% to 90% humidity so... yes!... you sweat...not just "glow" let me assure you!

The work begins

We get here to start each morning at about 6.20am and get several hours of shade which is a big incentive for such an early start.

From the other end.

The rest of the day at present in take up with engine un-installation !! Yes the trusty Volvo MD 30A 65HP is being superseded by a new Yanmar 75HP Turbo. We have agonized over the decision for nearly a year and reluctantly decided to replace it instead of buy a few new parts.  The engine still runs and starts perfectly but some of the peripherals are dying. Starter motor, copper pipes, potentially the main diesel rotary pump may need service...lots of little things which would be easier repaired out of the boat but which added together with the 12,000hrs of great service don't add up financially. In five years it will be a 30 year old engine.  Any way the new engine in here in Phuket and we are awaiting the arival of Huck... our great friend from OZ who generously offered to come and help with the installation if we went ahead with the purchase. Hes due next week!

We haven't bought a new gear box as it is not so old, so its a bobtail instal....???

Currently we are staying at the Akwaaba Hill Mansion with good friends Mike and Chris who have once again invited us to stay. The boat is not livable...the air con cant work on the hard stand....When Huck arrives we will move into a condo here at the Marina for a couple of weeks before we go SAILING..... hopefully! Thats what were here for after all!!

Life in a Bubble

Plastic and tape...painting job.

We are tucked back in aboard Taipan albeit inside a big plastic bubble with paint fumes. Our painter permitted us to go aboard to kick out 2011 and welcome in 2012. We had a quiet night aboard for the first night in three and a half months. It was amidst a fug of mold and closed up boat smell that we savored a good bottle of red and toasted the incoming year. Couldn't find the champs but no matter! The red worked well and we duely awoke  on new years day with a shocker head just to remind us were not quite up to all the partying we used to do.

Cheers

We flew out of Australia on the 21st only 7 days after the successful completion of Davids treatments. We had a few days each with Annamarie, Michael and Corinne and Andrew and Christine, all of whom spoiled us rotten. Andrew and Christine drove us to the airport and kindly offered to look after our car.

Chris and Mike, sailing friends in Phuket picked us up and welcomed us to their lovely hill mansion overlooking the bay. Several days rest and relaxation and then Xmas chaos reined!. 12 friends  to a wonderful sit down lunch and dinner with all the trimmings. Fabulous day and company and food by the pool with views to Phang Nga Bay.

View to Phang Nga Bay.

We have now settled down to life in the slow lane again...watching paint to dry. David of course cant be slowed down and the ampaphobic is "currently"....pardon the pun... tangled in wires, resistors, relays meters and stuff doing something technical to the fridge and freezer compressors which are apparently confused by the fans!!....??? I cook and clean!

The fridge and freezer were not keen to start when we got back as some old dust in the fans had got damp and they wouldnt start. Suffice to say its all good now the fridge man has been by!

I have banished most of the mould and damp smelly boat smells with conderntrated bleach and am now working my way through the cupboards washing stuff.  Cruising life!

We hope to be finished with the paint business in about a week so we can get the boat back together to start the next jobs.....thru hulls and mast....and new engine....sigh. Might as well just slash a hole in all your pockets!!

Thanks to everyone for your support and good cheer during a trying 2011. Looking forward to sailing this year....somewhere...anywhere!

On the Home Run 11th December 2011

The final phase of Davids treatment comences tomorrow and will take about 3 days. He is really well and positive. We are looking forward to getting back to Taipan on the 21st in time for a relaxing Xmas with friends in Thailand. Work aboard is progressing well in our absence.

Michelle and I

We have been fettered and nurtured by all our wonderful friends and family here in WA for the past 3 months. It has been wonderfull catching up with everyone. 

Riding with Jean and Margie

Joan, Davids mum, is safely into her new home in Albany which was a huge undertaking for everyone concerned but  we feel sure she will enjoy the new home and the rediscovery of her old home friends.

Spending time with children and grandchildren has been a rare pleasure we have enjoyed more of, on this return trip.

I hope every one has a wonderful Xmas and New Year and that maybe some of you will get the opportunity to join us so we can repay some of the hospitality  we have enjoyed here.

I had a couple of riding opportunities and missed a couple but is was good to get back in the saddle. The season has been long and lush and the view from horseback is always special

I didn't get to ride with my treasured daughter in law, Ferne and the grand daughters but will have to get that happening next year!

Grey Nomads on the Road

We have been in OZ for over a month now and its been pretty hectic. Firstly there was the round with the medicos and programming for Davids treatment. All the treatment so far seems to be working as planned and the outlook remains good.

Our first priority after initial round with doctors was to buy a car of some description. After several days of searching and haggling we bagged a Holden Commodore wagon. Its been great so far. Lots of km but not really old. 7 years.

Savannaha's first Pony Club Rally on Jane.

We went down to Albany to stay with Kris mum and dad for a couple of weeks and managed to catch up with lots of friends and family. Edna and Colin, Kris's mum and dad, headed off to Bali for a break so we went and  stayed with Kris's son. Jason and Ferne, his wife, and two daughters. Helped with the new verandah for a couple of days. Savannah,  4 years, participated in her first Pony Club Rally with her pony Jane. Lily, 12 years, went off to a Gymkhana in Albany with Freckles and swept the field, arriving home with the high point trophy and a bag of loot. Ferne is as busy as ever with horses to be worked or broken-in for number of clients. Jason is getting ready for harvest and a busy hot season ahead, with big crops forecast.

The team. Jason Kerry and David finished laying the retaining blocks for the verandah

Before we returned to Perth we headed off in Edna and Colin's caravan for a grey nomad trial run. I have to say it was a little alarming when we stopped at the Stirling Range Retreat to hear the noises coming from one of the wheels. Not keen on that, David investigated but without a wheel spanner, it was difficult to accurately determine the problem but we soldiered on for a couple more days eventually returning to Jason's without misadventure. Not convinced about caravans though.

Grey Nomads on the Road

Radiation started on the 13th of October and we have counted off 7 of the 30 treatments today. At the end of the treatment period we plan to go back to Albany for a couple of weeks to recuperate before the hospital and brachytherapy which will involve 4 days in hospital and a spinal block for 3 of those days to enable the treatment to be administered. Not really looking forward to that bit much.

Wild flowers at Cape Riche

On the weekend of the 15th 16th Jason Ferne and Lily met us in Yokine where we helped them to pick up and stack on pallets,  some brick paving they purchased second hand to be transported down to their farm for the new verandah and garage. (23ton, 5300++, 4kg ea , 200sq m.) We were all knackered!!..(..relief to know it was not just the "olds" who were stuffed!!)

This week we spent a couple of nights with Ann-Marie in Fremantle which was fabulous. I had a couple of visits to a specialist to consult on a troublesome shoulder injury I sustained in February, and he has decided that cortisone and exercise with be sufficient. Thankfully no surgery!

23 ton of Paving tiles packed and wrapped for the verandah

Next weekend is the CHOGAM Conference in Perth so we plan to head south again for a few days. Kris's folks are back from Bali, having survived the earthquake there unscathed. Looking forward to their adventure stories. At 83 and 89 years there are sure to be some tales. It is also Colins 89th birthday so we will have to participate in strangling a few rednecks.

 

Davids mum Joan, is planning to move back to Albany so we are spending quite a lot of time staying with her in Guildford to try to help here sort out the move. A big job at 88!

The picturesque estuary at Cape Riche

Thats it from us for now.

FURUNO UPDATE

Furuno Update
After protracted communication with Furuno Support we have finaly been advised that they will provide the unlock code free of charge for the CMap Chart Chart which covers the Navionics chart area we purchased.

MaxSea France does confirm there may currently be shortcomings of the Navionics based MM3-V69-P00
( S. China Sea ) map data.

This will hopefully resolve the problems. We will keep you posted here when we return to Taipan in late December and update the charts.

Arrived back in OZ.

We flew in knackered, after a long wait in KL and were greeted by the friendly faces of Andrew and Christine at 6am at the airport and a very welcome site too! Great breakfast at their place before we picked up the car from Bayswater Hire and now staying with Joan, Davids mum, at Guildford.
Now its back to treatment mode and blood sucking, an all that fun stuff before we can pick up the "cured"card and flick off back to warm..sweaty even...Thailand and home to Taipan to continue our adventures.
Car hunting for a cheap reliable car..ha ha! Wish us luck!

Australia. Mob Ph 0415129156 or Kris 0467541529

Furuno Navnet 3 D Chartplotter woes.

 We are frustrated with Furuno's lack of response on this issue to date.


The image on the left is a screen shot of a genuine Navionics chart running in a Raymarine Chartplotter

 
The image right is of the same area, in northern Phang Nga Bay Thailand, is a screen shot of the Furuno Navnet 3D chart plotter with a Mapmedia derived Navionics chart. These charts are digitized for the Navnet 3D plotter and purchased by us at 4 times the price of the original Navionics data.
There is no tide data and no useful depth information. Further zoom reveals nothing further.
(The red squares are way points we have put on)


For more comparisons see

Navnet 3D MFD8 Chartplotter Running Navionics Derived Charts

Some more exploration in Phang Nga Bay

Brother Vernon arrived on the 24th from Perth to spend a few weeks with us so after topping up on some great Thai food we headed back out into beautiful Phang Nga Bay again. This time to explore some spots weve heard about but not been to yet.
First stop was at the northern Hong group where we anchored late on the 28th at Panak. Vern and Jo visited the area in janurary after our joint visit in Vietnam so we didnt go to Kho Pan Yi stilt village as they did that tour then. Off we stooged to the north east corner of the bay and in beautiful conditions we anchored at Chong Lat. Dingying upriver we found a healthy and productive oyster farming area. Some hard bargainig saw us loaded with fresh oysters for dinner. A young fisherman dropped by with a shark and some lovely prawns for a bargain so we had a good supply of local seafood laid in.
Hen and Chicken island again provided some lovely snorkling before we headed upriver to Krabi. We intended to go right up to the town but chickend out after running onto a sand bank. The rising tide assisted in getting us off again quite quickly but the tide was nearly done so w elected to anchor at the Ferry jetty and take a taxi into town.
Krabi is a big sprawling place so we didnt see much but it certainly looks interesting. Thais do amazing things with traffic lights ....

A long tail bought us back to the dingy we had left tied to the ferry dock. With the tide now out it was easy to see where we grounded on the sand...there are lots of sand banks!!. Going up river would be possible but stressfull! The anchorage just upriver from the jetty was very comfortable and the trip to the city by taxi was easy. It is possible to clear in and out of Thailand here and its a good spot to remember.
Headed to Bamboo group and snorkled again. This time the conditions were excellent and it was thoroughly entertaining. Long Beach on the north east side of Phi Phi was our choice for anchorage overnight as the southwesterly swell was evident and Phi Phi anchorages doubtful. Long beach proved a good anchorage and the meal ashore was delicious. Perfect conditions.

Vern relaxing after a dive at Koh Rok Nok

Onward to Phi Phi Don where a visit to the bay would not be complete without cocktails on the beach at sundown and a good foot massage. We suffered for our desires though because Taipan rolled like a pig all night in the SW swell. Off at sparrows  for somewhere sheleterd....Rok Nok! Ok so it is a bit more distance south but the swell wont get into the chanel at this angle!
It was a long sail / motor and conditions were not that great. There was less than 2 miles visibility, the worst we have seen in Thailand.  We did however catch a nice Spanish Mackerel and a Dorado, so more fresh fish to keep us going. Anchored in the chanel we had a reasonable night sleep and lo and behold the morning was heavenly. One of those really lovely days. Donned our gear and even broke out the hookah to head off to the north eastern side for a dive. The water was the clearest I had ever seen in Thailand! Absolutly fabulous. Vern was pretty impressed with the amount of live coral after recently diving in Honduras.
Thursday morning we reluctantly headed out to Koh Lanta Old Town on the south east side. The weather was still gorgeous but we needed to keep moving. Friday we hired motorbikes and rode the island roads to Saladan at the top end. Had lunch and toured around. Very easy place to ride a bike as there is no bridge to the island so the vehicle traffic is quite limited.
Left Lanta early on Saturday to head back to Yacht Haven. Sailed 60 NM in two legs all the way to the northern tip of Koh Noi. Was probably one of the best sailing days we've had in the Bay in 5 years!
Sunday we had another leisurely sail into Yacht Haven Marina in time for dinner at Coconuts.
Monday we hired a car and set off to explore the east coast. Laem Sak fish restruant happend to be our first stop and we realized that this was the village ajacent ot our onchorage at Chong Lat the previous week. We had a seafood meal at the jetty restruant which was very nice and continued on towards Krabi and Ao Nang. Spent the night at Viewson bungalows on the beachfront. headed out early for breakfast in Krabi town and on towards surat thani.  diverted late in the day to Khao Sok national park and spent th night at Riverside Cottages. Rustic but comfortable. We were all really ill by Wednesday morning with some nasty gut bug...food or bug..dont know....! Anyway it was not an option to stay longer. We headed to Takua Pa to find a pharmacy and get drugs!!
Arrived back at Yacht Haven at 100pm and fell back into bed. Vern had to fly out at 1.00am Thursday morning so he got 8 hours recuperation on drugs before we took him to the airport and said our farewells. We improved fairly rapidly from midnight so I hope he did too!!
Sad to say goodbye

Great Crew

Steven Tom and Hannah

Thursday 14th July. Stephen, Kerry, Tom and Hannah arrived on board fresh from a few days of luxury at Indigo Pearl. It was pouring rain and forecast to get worse. In one of the brief breaks in the deluge the dock boys came and threw of our lines and we motored out into the gloom. Well the gloom sort of lifted and we had a pleasant motor down the channel and decided to head on to Phanak for the night. It remained calm and although we had some rain it was cool and flat.

Kerry

On Friday we headed out to the stilt village at Kho Pan Yai. The conditions were bad. Gusts up to high 40's but no sail up and protected water so we just leaned over!! A long tail took us ashore and we wandered the alleys and shopped in the shelter. Back aboard and high tailed it to the north east side of Kho Noi. Anchor down just in time. Another squall hit as 3 more yachts were attempting to get into the shelter. By dark everyone was settled in and safely anchored.

That was the last still night at anchor. Saturday we made our way via the Bamboo Group to Phi Phi Don. Ashore for dinner and cocktails and some shopping. Rolled like a pig all night. The wind went south!!! Un heard of! still we rolled. Some snorkeling and swimming before heading to the north anchorage. Visitors ashore for some shopping and massage while we motored round to the new anchorage.  It was reasonable so we went ashore for massage and cocktaiils etc as you do!!

Got back to Taipan at about ten PM and she was rolling as good as ever!. Fortunatly it stopped about midnight so we were all able to get some sleep. At least it was fine and clear again.

Tuesday we arrived back at Yacht Haven to ferry the crew back to the Indigo Pearl for a well earned relax before departing to Perth on the late flight on Wednesday night.

What a great crew!

Busy Visitor Times in Phuket

We have recently had a busy time with visitors here in Phuket. Ley Langford from Crystal Blues, currently based in Singapore, flew in for a four day visit and stayed aboard Taipan in Yacht Haven. We had a fat time eating Thai for breakfast lunch and dinner...well not quite breakfast but it was fun. We actually took the whole four days off and just drove about checking out developments and shopping. This is  the new Ao Po Marina hardstand. Its much easier to get into than Boat Lagoon and they use a Sealift machine instead of a Travel-lift so no overhead stuff. Looks promising for the future. 

L to R. Alan Jan David Tim Vanessa Mike Carole

On the 4th of July Tim and Vanessa, Davids son and his fiance, flew in from Australia for a two week break from their mining jobs in the North West. Vanessa's parents and Aunt and uncle were in Phuket too so we had a family day out up to Ko Pan Yai and back on Tuesday. 

Wednesday we all dashed into Phuket to do some privision shopping and then departed marina at 3pm for Ko Naka Yai about 11 Nm. The weather was lovely and it was great to be out into the Bay again.

Thursday morning after a brief swim and slow breakfast we made our way to Phi Phi Don arriving in the early afternoon. Two glorious days a Phi Phi with cocktails on the beach enjoying the afternoon sunset. Awesome Pizza and much fun at the fish doctor. Small fish attack your feet and nibble off all the dead skin. Sent Tim and Vanessa into paroxysms of giggles! On Thursday afternoon we hired a long tail for a run over to Phi Phi Lei. It was amazingly blue! but we have never seen so many tourists. Phi Phi Don was packed with people and boats.

Saturday we headed up to the Bamboo group for some snorkeling and after a short shower of rain we spent a couple of pleasant hours there before heading onto Hen and Chicken anchorage for the night.

Long Tails in Phi Phi Lei

Sunday morning paddle and swim and snorkel before heading west to Ko Yai to anchor for the night. We had a huge rain squall and were besieged by yachts seeking shelter just after we settled our pick. Its a roomy place though so there was no harassment. The squalls passed and the sky cleared for the night.

Monday has come all to quickly and we headed back to Yacht Haven for Tim and Vanessa to take a luxury break at the beautiful Indigo Pearl Resort at Nai Yang Beach not far from the marina. After they were settled in we caught up with Davids brother Steven, his wife Kerry and the two not so children, Hannah 13  and Tom nearly 18. They are also at Indigo Pearl and we are looking forward to them  joining us aboard Taipan later this week for a Phang Nga Bay adventure.

Langkawi to Phuket June 2011

Aside from the debacle with the water in the Diesel Langkawi was a good stopover. Great fun to catch up with Brian and Dawn on Ten Large again. Rebak is still a lovely marina despite a severely unreliable internet service and the fact that neither of our phones (Digi) work there at all. There are lovely walking trails and the pool is great.

Having restored the Volvo and the Yanmar to their original condition we headed to Kuah to get some fuel and clear out for Thailand.

On Friday 10th we motored out of the anchorage and put  the way points on the 3 navigation instruments..!!!! .(Garmin, Furuno Navnet 3D (useless) and Netbook) for Taratao. Hmm triple redundancy !!

Walking train on Taratao.

Taratao is a Thai Island National Park just north of Langkawi.  It was a prison island built around 1938 and disbanded in 1947. It had something of a reputation as a haven for Pirates and guards and prisoners colluded to pirate many ships in the area. Around 3000 prisoners were detained here at its peak. There are several pretty walk trails to take you through the historical sites. The anchorage is excellent and there is water available at the long concrete pier.

Concrete pier at Taratao

We saw some large squirrel type critters in the tree tops. About the size of a cat and very black.

We sailed on to Petra to anchor on the east side opposite the lone hut owned by Kan. Ashore for a swim and walk again and we gave Kam a throw net we have been carting around unused for 6 years. Figured he'd get a lot more use out of it than us. He is a Bird Nest watcher we think and his little camp was immaculate with lovely orchids and ferns.

12th is raining and squally so we upped the anchor and sailed up to Kantang river entrance.

The plan was to check in at Kantang. Its a tricky place to get to and quite a long way. We motored up the river...wrong river...turn round ...different river.....went aground twice on banks. Arrived at 007 24.14N 009 30.34E and anchored on a mud bank. Aground for a couple of hours. Went ashore to look for Immigration Customs etc and found a very clean and tidy town with a pleasant market but absolutely no sign of any Officials!. Did buy some nice veg.

Dingy dock at Kantang.

Back to Taipan ....still aground....waited for some more water so we could leave to anchor downriver. The town must make fish fertilizer or something. The smell was atrocious!!!. Not long before dark we got off the bottom and raced downriver to anchor just before dark between a couple of big fish traps opposite a large barge loader. Mosquitos had a good feed overnight.

We decided that the depth log is faulty. The reading when we went aground said 1.4m under the Keel. It is supposed to go aground at 0!! Hopefully now we can keep off the mud.

Tuesday 14th Kradan. many years coming and going between Thailand and Langkawi and we have never stopped at Kradan. The anchorage is beautiful. Very close to the beach and its still 10m. The wind is quite strong so we decided to spend a few days here to wait out the strong weather warning. Its full moon though and so most of the Thai fishing fleet seem to have decided to wait our the weather and the moon here too. Over the next two days we had up to 50 large crewed trawlers and squid boats in the anchorage. Too many people!!

A barge tow outside Lanta. The tug is not visible in the pic.

Thursday 16th gave up our position to some fishing boats and headed out to somewhere peaceful. The wind was howling and from the west north west so it was a boisterous sail in up to 30+ kn. Its only 16nm up to Talat Lanta and after abandoning the southern anchorage we headed up there to drop the pick. Talat Lanta is the original town in the area and on a very nice open water way with good protection at this time of year. There is a big concrete pier with a small floating dock at the end for dingy allowing all tide access.

Sunday 19th with the wind warning still active we headed to Koh Ph for shelter. David was busy trying to convince me we could get round the top of the island and short cut to Krabi just as we grounded at 6 kn on a mud bank which was sticking out of the water!!. Mark 1 eyballs...no way!

We spent the next five hours watching the bank appear and dissapear before enough water returned for us to pull off and anchor for the night. At least it was sheltered.

Taipan anchored at Hen n Chicken.

My tolerance for rivers and shallow banks at an all time low as we motored out to the south again avoiding the possibility of a rounding  the north of the island but the likely hood of grounding for hours again was also diverted! Our next stop was Hen and Chicken opposite Krabi. Something was muttered about attempting an upriver passage to clear in at Krabi but it was deemed inapropriate and struck from the record!!.

The north end of Phang Nga Bay is spectacular and not lessened by the strong winds we experienced. In fact, without a serious deadline for a change, we were able to sail the most efficient route to make use of the excellent breeze and enjoy some lovely sailing in this beautiful cruising ground. Ko Hong provided a great lunch stop and swim and the overnight anchorage on the eastern side of Koh Noi could be considered any time during the SW monsoon season.

Wednesday 22nd. Eventually we had to get to Phuket to clear into Thailand . The  officials take a dim view of cruisers taking longer than a fortnight to travel from Langkawi to Phuket. (130Nm) We did have a particularly long period of adverse weather and we were not harassed too much.

All round it was a great couple of weeks and the nearest to "cruising" weve been for many a long day!

Now we are in Yacht Haven Marina looking forward to the arrival of Tim (Davids son) and his partner Vanessa.

Langkawi. Sailing aside while we fix something that was not broken.

David is well although he is getting even more forgetful... nutty maybe....he left the cap of the deck filler the other evening and we went to bed. It poured with rain and put over 30ltrs of water into the fuel tank. Unknowingly we started the genset to charge batteries first thing in the morning and ....yes...engine stopped....oh dear...darn well we started the main engine...still unaware that the water was in the tank and guess what!!! it stopped too. Now we had a very alarmingly decreasing power supply and no motor to pull the anchor to sail and no wind anyway. We pumped all the water out of the tank then David cleaned all the lines out and removed and replaced all the filters but there was water still in the rotary injector pump on the volvo so no point in trying that. Genset tried  to run but kept stopping......... had to call Noel;. a fellow from a near by marina to come and tow us back into the marina where we spent the rest of the evening and following morning with a good friend of Ten Large...my favorite boat in the whole world as it happens......Brian came over: he had over 300 trucks in the UK.....never a Volvo!!!.....he had a trucking business. he once bought a Volvo truck but he sent it for repairs after a government motor test and when he got the bill....he told them to keep the truck and the bill!!! Anyway he came over, and together with his expertise they removed the injectors we had just replaced....grr....and that enabled the poor old starter motor to turn the motor over without bursting into a ball of smoke......then they found a bleed screw on the pump and although it was time consuming  we eventually got the fuel back running and the water out. Only ended up changing one injector on the Volvo and one on the Yanmar Genset. Phew!!

Next morning we left the marina again ..... and lo and behold....he had left the deck filler cap off again....lucky I spotted it before we sailed into the ocean and filled it up with salt water!!!.

Then on the run to Kuah...about 10nm....he lost the cap of one of the jerry cans over the side so decided to lower the Dingy to retrieve it!. Well we got the cap back eventually and then towed the dingy the last bit as a storm was approaching....all good till we get to the anchorage...forget the dingy is there...drop the anchor and back up....and ....you guessed it....run right over the dingy tow line and cut it off. Very lucky the dingy was along side and we were able to grab it or he would have had to go for a swim!!

This morning he dived on the prop and removed the tow line!!

So you see the female hormones have kicked in and are working well now!!!

Penang 27th May to Langkawi 31st May

Penang was a good stop over as usual and we treated ourselves to Sunday Breakfast at the Eastern and Oriental hotel. It was outstanding as usual. The Little Penang Street Market was in full swing when we emerged from breakfast and a pleasant hour wandering through the exhibits and displays eschewed. We were lucky to be here for the market as it is only on once a month. Huck bought a nice little video camera and David and Shenka went to the Barge to get Diesel. It is awkward to get fuel in Penang because the fuel stations wont let you fill Jerry Jugs at all without a letter or authority from the harbour master or customs or someone. Of course you need to know that before you rock up at the fuel station armed with loads of jerrys. It also cant happen on the weekend. Shenka was a huge help though and he also cooked for us all a wonderful Indian dinner aboard Blue Whale.

Headed into lake for a swim.

On Tuesday the 31st we headed out towards Langkawi. There was very little wind and we made it into Dayang Bunting at 4.30 in time for a swim in the lake.

Wednesday the 1st of June we headed into Rebak Marina. Hired a care and took Huck on a whirlwind tour of the Island including the cable car to the top of the mountain. We were lucky with the weather and managed a good panoramic view of the whole group.

On Friday the 3rd  Huck flew out to Perth. We were very sorry to see him go as usual. Thanks Huck.

27th May 2011. Rocking an rolling to Penang.

We've arrived in Penang and a very welcome arrival it was after the last two days. When we left Singapore on the afternoon of Tuesday the 24th of May we decided to sail non-stop to Penang. We hadn't done that since November 2006 and seem to have forgotten the downside. Out of Singapore was easy with Immigration at the anchorage speedy and efficient we were underway by 3.00pm. We left the marina later than expected because the fuel system in the marina at One 15 is hopeless. It froths in the nozzle so badly that we had to fill Jerry cans then decant them into the boat. Painful!

There was no wind of any use so we motored up to the peninsular and set off into the shipping channel on dusk to travel with the north bound stream of ships of every size and description throughout the night. We were the smallest!. There were barges with tug tows heading south though, in the north bound traffic, which was a hazard, although all the ones we saw were lit correctly, a change from our last trip.

Huck, David and I did roughly three hour watches which with 3 people is far easier, giving everyone a 6 hour break. 

Dawn on Wednesday we were approaching Melaka so we detoured inshore to sail close to the city then followed the coast during daylight hours. As dusk approached again we moved offshore to avoid the plethora for unmarked and badly lit fishing boats and nets. Once in the channel all went smoothly albeit slowly with current against us and only useless wind. By midnight the picture had changed however, with the wind picking up to 18 to 20 knots on the nose and large numbers of ships around the port of Klang. The sea had built and was short and steep causing a nasty hobby-horsing effect and occasionally knocking the boat speed back to only 2 knots. With a large thunderstorm visible on the radar we decided to turn  back a short distance and head into the port of Klang. The motion was now bearable and the boat speed much better, at up to 8 knots. The storm broke with a vengeance as we entered the port so with little visibility and the radar totally cluttered we hugged the left side of the channel, furthermost from the main port activity. 

Tanjong City Marina. Penang

On Thursday morning and we were all tired, having been unable to get any sleep in the conditions. In the fore peak berth I spent as much time in the air as on the mattress.!! The sea flattened as the day wore on and we approached Pankor Island at about 11pm with the conditions worsening again. The fishing fleet there is truly dreadful. The lights are the typical Asian Christmas tree lighting system, with even the occasional large ship showing flashing lights and no navigation lights. One fishing boat came straight at us down the radar screen. A course change of 30 degrees by us didn't deter it and with spotlights shining at us we were forced to turn a complete circle. I seem to remember something similar in the same place in 2006. Maybe its a local game they play with yachts!!. In our past experience in daylight, these events are usually caused by a net the fishing boat doesn't want you to run into. This was not the case on this occasion as we resumed our original course after the circle. It was however very unnerving. As the night wore on the seas built again and sleep became impossible.  

Friday morning at first light saw us 60 NM from Penang, everyone tired and the sea still messy.  By 11am things had settled somewhat but the wind was still useless. We were taking turns to get a well earned sleep. By 3 pm it was only 20nm to go and with a better angle we were able to motor sail more efficiently. Tanjong City Marina at Georgetown, Penang was a very welcome sight, and by 5.50 we were tied up with the air-conditioner running and the crew were all a much happier crowd!!

We had a delicious seafood dinner at the Shady Tree after dropping the Passports into Banana for Thai Tourist Visas and hit the pleasantly imobile "sack" by 10pm. 

The Shady Tree Penang

Not a peep was heard until 9.40 am this morning!!

David, Huck and I left Miri in Borneo on the 13th of May and have sailed 1100 NM. "Sailed" is a euphemism for "motored" on this occasion. We only had about 4 hours of sailing. We have motored 198 hours on this trip, sometimes down to only 1.7 knots. Since Miri we've used about 790 litres of fuel!. This would be our most inefficient trip to date....EVER!! On the upside, the old 65hp Volvo, with about 12,000 hours on it, hasn't missed a beat and still only used about 1 litre of oil.

Singapore.19th May to 24th May

Huck showing David how to rebuild the big jabsco bilge pump.

Taipan on the dock at One 15 Marina Sentosa Cove Singapore.

We picked up the new Viking Life Raft in Singapore.
Corine Ji, Viking's Sales Support Coordinator was extremely helpful and even delivered the raft personally. Ph +656424921, Mobile +6590664589 or email her at COJ@viking-life.com

Miri to Singapore Friday 13th May 2011

  The day is wearing on as we prepare to leave the marina in Miri to head to Singapore on out first leg back to Phuket. Waiting for a part for a pump. Well its getting late and the part hasn't shown up by4pm so we finally toss the lines and head to sea. 

Huck in the tea brown Rajang River in Sarawak.

Aboard the good ship Taipan for this journey we have Huck Holden from Mt Barker in WA. Hucks a seasoned Taipan traveler having come from Darwin to Bali with us in '06 and on various other legs round Australia prior to this. Huck is an invaluable crew member because not only does he eat what ever is going without complaint he can also fix almost anything. We never seem to notice the things that need fixing till he arrives so hes been put to work on the pump. Hence the parts we were waiting for.

The wind picked up about an hour out and the sails took over all the way to the entrance to the Lassa River. 185NM South West. On Saturday Huck landed 3 Spanish Mackerel in pretty quick order and we decided to call a halt to the fishing about then! Tasty change from chicken and pork.

We anchored at about 5am on Sunday in the entrance to the Lassa River for a nap then up anchored and off up the dirty tea brown river past mile of destroyed forest replanted with Palm Oil. The whole day was spent motoring in the sometimes rainy and dank river swamps. You may have guessed I am very unimpressed with the swamps of Borneo thus far!

A traditional Long House on the Rajang!

On Monday morning we struck off into the clear blue ocean for  Singapore, 450 NM to the west. No wind! Well enough to sail assist for motor sailing. Tuna!! at 4 and a half knots on ta blue Rapala lure followed by sashumi. a highlight! On Tuesday the wind dropped to total  calm so we dropped the main, cut the engine and David hopped over the side with a scraper to knock of some barnacles which we suspected were on the propeller and shaft and causing extra drag. He was only in the water about 15 minuets and just as he got out 4 very big dolphins surfaced for a look. Luck he didn't spot one in the water!!

Friendly Indonesian Fishermen between Borneo and Singapore

The 18th was Davids 64th birthday so we started the day with Champagne breakfast then naps in shifts...then lunch was Canapes and anti pasta and white wine. More naps in shifts then Dinner of Beef Stroganoff followed by Plum Pud and Brandy Sauce with Red wine. You know we haven't been drinking because you see we are following a really serious health plan. Loose weight and get fit to fight the Prostate cancer! We did however feel a birthday could excuse us all.

The 19th we are approaching the Seaways into Singapore. We've not had a drop of rain or a squall and the strongest wind has been 12 knots , since we left Miri on the 13th.

May 1st Back to Taipan and Miri Marina

Here its mostly fine during the day with a late storm some days. We walk an hour every morning and then do whatever boat jobs are on the never ending lists.

There has been the inevitable re provisioning to do after a lengthy absence. The fridge and freezer were emptied and turned off so some serious shopping happened. We bought back some Roo steak and cheese. The Australian Customs took the Blue Castillo off us because its a "soft" substance...probably a nitro bomb!! Darn!! Air Asia were also antsy about us flying our two new plastic diesel  Jerry cans. In the end they assured themselves, probably by smell test...that they were safe and we were able to bring them. Malaysian Airlines didn't have a problem with them. We were pretty unhappy with Air Asia the last couple of flights. Their prices have not been so competitive and the service is really ordinary. We have done a few flights with Malaysian Airlines and Vietnam Air lately and been pleasantly surprised.

Since we returned David has re commissioned the Spectra Water-maker which we pickled, as we were unsure how long our absence was to be. Its running well apparently. During that process he discovered a pump had come undone and was rubbing on the steering cables so just as well we found that now and not in the middle of a storm!! 

While we were back in OZ I got an Xray and Ultra Sound of my shoulder but didn't have time to get back to the hospital for a second ultrasound and to have the injection. In Miri we called into the Orthopedic Specialist for an appointment. We went back an hour later for a cortisone injection into my shoulder. No fuss no bother and now no pain! All for just $57Aus. In Australia just the Xray and Ultrasound was $300 plus 2 doctor visits and I still hadn't had the cortisone!!

A couple of days ago we put new rope clutches on the Main Traveler because  the Ronstan ones we purchased and installed in Thailand  were not clutches. The were only jammers and now we have moved the track forward there is more tension on the lines so  we think clutches will work better  David  also replaced the injectors on the Volvo which we had serviced back in Perth. He has run up the two engines , main engine and gen set, and  its all systems go! 

We are waiting here in Miri for Chris and Daun to return to More Magic and for Huck our trusty sailor friend to come from OZ. We are hoping Huck will sail with us from Miri to Singapore. 

Tim and Vanessa, Davids son and partner, are planning a trip to Phuket to catch up with us on the 15th of July for 10 days so our plan is to sail back to Phuket to leave Taipan on the hardstand from mid August until mid January when we return from Australia. Mid August because that will give us time to do a few little things before we leave, like pull the mast out and strip it in preparation for new paint. We would like to get the non skid deck surface redone and the hull painted if that is possible. We are exploring possibilities and prices at the moment. There are some good trades people in Phuket we have worked with before and its possible to leave the boat and expect the work to be done. The trusty blue Jeep is already booked with Morn, the great car rent man of Phuket, so we'll have wheels as well.

So for now we are waiting and doing jobs!

Back to Taipan 25th April

We flew out of Perth with Air Asia for Kuala Lumpur at 6.50am. Thanks to Andrew and Christine for their lift to the airport at 5am!! Also for the stupendous roast pork and all the goodies the night before we left.
Our wait in KL was painful. Travelled from the cheap terminal to the main terminal and waited until 8.15pm for our flight out to Miri with Malaysian Airlilnes. Back aboard Taipan before midnight. Pretty wacked!
Its been exhausting getting the Prostate Treatment sorted out but now its under way. Lots of exercise to go with the Hormone Treatment and already feeling tired.
Our Malaysian Telephone numbers havnt changed
Kris +60 164665346
David + 60 164907947

Back In Australia 29th March

On the 29th of March we flew back into Perth to pursue some treatment for Prostate Cancer, diagnosed in Kota Kinabalu on the 18th of March. David had no symptoms and his PSA was not very high (within the range for his age)  however we were advised to go straight back to Australia for follow up.
We visited a Radiation Oncologist David Joseph for advice and David was referred to a surgical urologist, John Stanley at Hollywood Hospital for further assessment.  David underwent a MRI and CAT scan on Thursday morning before this appointment and we were able to take the results of scans and the pathology results with us. The scans don't show any involvement with Lymph or Bone at this stage and it is considered unlikely to have metastasised. It is however a T3 tumour. He decided that surgery was not an option. Well, not an option he would recommend, as the location of the tumour makes it unlikely that surgery would be successful on its own.
Wednesday 13th of April after a return visit to David Joseph David commenced hormone therapy. This will take six months so we can fly back to Taipan on  Anzac Day April 25th.
In 6 months we will return to Australia for a 6 week therapy of Low Dose Radiation which involves visiting Charlie Gardner Hospital every week day for about 10 minutes. Following this there will be a 2 to 6 week rest period before Intensive Radiotherapy which will require hospitalisation for 3 to 4 days.
This will be the end of treatment we hope.
Thank you all for your kind thoughts and good wishes and we will keep updating this site on developments.

Our Australian Phone numbers are
David 0405294605
Kris   0467541529

Miri to Labuan 6th March 2011

Left Miri at a round mid-day on  Friday the 4th....yes, and with bananas on board!. In spite of the bananas we had a great sail around to the river anchorage in Kuala Belait, Brunei. Its about 35NM so we arrived well before dark, in time for pleasant sun-downers in the cockpit, and glad to be out of the marina again. On Saturday the weather held again for a great sail in fine conditions to the infamous anchorage built by the Sultan of Brunei's brother. Some sort of folly for Brunei and a lovely anchorage for yachties passing by. The most peacefull and calm anchorage imaginable with picturesque shore side. Unfortunalty its a no landing area so we were content to look at it with beer in hand from the cockping onece again.
This morning after a leisurely breakfast we motored out and set sail for Labuan about 35NM again. However the wind died and after only a  very short sail we motor sailed into the marina at about 3.30 pm. We passed the time learning to put eye splices into double braid lines. The larger ropes still challenge us and the instructions are total double dutch!. Labuan still a dodgy marina but we have some parts and some mail here to pick up. We also have a new anchor winch on order and will wait for that here also.

Woody Elephant Training Chang Mai

Returning to Chang Mai on the 8th we booked into the Anodard Hotel in the old town because it was closer to the center and cheaper and better rooms than BMP. We decided to do an elephant mahout training camp for 2 days and one night.

Woodys Elephant Training was chosen as it was recommended by Vern and Jo after their day there.( Website www.woodyelephanttraining.com
Email: humber3333@hotmail.com
Ph +66 815315363)

This is a family operation with only 8 elephants making it somewhat more personal. Woody picked us up at 8am the following morning and we drove north  for about an hour to the property. On arrival we were issued with elephant training clothes and hats and then instructed in elephant training language. We had a number of basic commands to learn before we could get started. Next we were introduced to the elephants and given mount and dismount lessons. No saddles an no stirrups so all about leg lifting and leaping and clawing your way aboard. Ears are a useful hand hold and the elephant, if inclined, and if you get the command right, will assist with some foot and knee raising maneuvers. Next was lunch. All the meals were sumptuous Thai Style but with consideration of western palates. Not too spicy but you could add your own to taste.

Mahouts for two days.

After lunch the 5 of us climbed aboard, 2 per elephant, and rode up the hillside to a lookout where we dismounted, that's polite for skidded and slid off ungracefully, to chop sugarcane to feed the elephants.  Here we swaped mahouts and we headed to the river to scrub and bath them. We all got soaked doing water fights, them with noses and us with buckets. After a good scrubbing and splashing about we climbed aboard again for a real underwater swim in the lake. This time the elephants went completely underwater with us on top!. It was tremendous fun and plenty of squealing and fooling about was had by all, especially the elephants.The end of the day involved feeding and chaining them for the night prior to our own feeding. After dinner we joined the real mahouts around the fire and tested some local delicacies from the fire then checked the herd and retired thankfully to our beds. Our room was splendid. No camping here!!. A huge room with en suite. Very early morning we arose to be involved in more bathing and scrubbing then breakfast for us and them. Then it was one by one all the herd had to be taken down to water to drink and only 3 tourists here now.

Great white hunter having a fat time!

The second day progressed in much the same way but with a little more experience under the belt and the elephants becoming more familiar, it became obvious that a week or so would be a lot of fun and there would be some chance of actually controlling the animal yourself. The "real" mahouts were never very far away when we were "controlling" our animals. There were no seats or saddles though so it was all bareback on the neck. Awesome. The best part of the trip and even David enjoyed it.!!

We went really swimming under water. That's David and I on the disappearing elephant in the middle!

 '

After our elephant farewell we were driven back to Anodard Hotel.  We relaxed round town for the next couple of days, enjoying the galleries and shops and food. Time comes eventually to consider heading back to Taipan in Miri. On the 12th we headed to the night train again to go down to Penang. Two nights !! Enough about trains! We had planned to go on from Penang to KL by train but gave up and caught a flight to KL and onward to Miri, arriving on the evening of  the 15th. We had been away a month but will need to go back again one day to see all the things we missed.

More Photos of Elephant Training 

Chang Mai and the Golden Triangle

Tuk-tuk in Bangkok

On Tuesday 1st of February  Vern, Jo, David and I flew out of Ho Chi Min to Bangkok, caught the train into the city and a taxi to China Town. We stayed at China Town Inn  (Yaowaraj Rd Sampuntawong Bangkok.Ph +662225020315)  It is noticeably shabbier than the equivalent price hotels in Vietnam. China Town was fully dressed up and busy for Chinese New Year, Thai style. It was fun prowling the streets for 24 hours prior to departing on the night train to Chang Mai.

The train north  to Chang Mai left at 6pm evening and was due into Chang Mai at 7.20 am the next morning.  It would have been much better to have had bottom sleepers each. Instead, we had a top and a bottom per couple. Top berths in second class sleeper is very narrow. Bottom berth would be big enough for two at a pinch. Toilets….left a lot to be desired and the less said the better!!. Food aboard was pricey for Thailand but good quality. We arrived in Chang Mai and went to a hotel we had pre-booked with an agent at the train station. BMP Resident. +6653208822.   www bmpresident.com. Email: bmp_tourservice@yahoo.com.
First impression was a little dodgy but it was OK, the food was good and it was an easy walk into the Old Walled City.

We hired motorbikes again and set off with map to find the Air Asia office so Vern and Jo could organize flights to Patong for a few days R&R prior to heading back  home to work. That task accomplished there was a lot of cruising about the streets of the old town while we had bikes. You don't see much on a bike in town though because you don't stop. Just buzz by. However we were able to get some sense of the size of Chang Mai.

On the 4th of Feb Vern and Jo went off on an elephant trip for the day so we wandered the streets, found a number of lovely antique shops and galleries and organized a car for hire to drive to Chang Rai the following day.Jo and Vern returned gushing with excitement over their excursion so David and I decided to have a go at it when we got back from Chang Rai.

On the5th of Feb The car a Toyots Yaris, was delivered and we ferried Vern and Jo to the airport on our way out of town to drive north. It was sad to say farewell we had all had such a great time. Such a nice way to spend time together. No commitments of family or work just quality time such as you don't get when you visit home on return trips from the boat.

Leaving Chang Mai we drove north west towards Fang overnighting in  a small but pleasant hotel along the way. Next day we dawdled through towards Chang Rai passing through some spectacular mountain scenery. We stopped in a small village where the Lunar new Year festival was being celebrated by a number of different ethnic groups. Dancing chanting and eating we the order of the occasion and we were invited to participate.

Arriving in Chang Rai just before dark we spent some time looking for somewhere to stay. Our map was awful and we finally found Maekok Villa (445 Singhaclai Rd Chang Rai. Ph 053711786 Opposite the Overbrook Hospital) near the very center of town. It is very central and we had a very good room up stairs, clean and comfortable.US27. Maekok is an easy stroll round the corner from the Thailand Tourism Center and after arming ourselves with several maps and brochures we set off into the countryside to the north west of Chang Rai. A full day was spent driving round the mountainous roads to all sorts of dead ends at the Burma boarder. We stopped in outback hill villages, ate local fare and chatted to the locals. No one understanding a word the other was saying. 

 

The area at this time of year is very dry and the air quality by afternoon is quite bad as the stalks from the harvested crops are being burned off in preparation for new plantings. its amazingly populated and cleared from the bottom of the steep gullies to the mountain ridges. One detour we did took us far out through dirt roads to an advertised Tea Plantation somewhere to the north west of Doi Mae Salong. It was called Chouifong Tea Plantation and established in 1979. It was a spectacular drive and the tea plantation is an impressive sight straddling as it does several mountainsides, gullies and ridges. To get there towards the end of the road we had to pass through an army encampment complete with huge camouflaged guns. The soldiers were however very friendly and waved us through. On our return they explained that the Burma boarder was only just down the spur about 100m. We could see a barracks of presumably Myanmar soldiers just on the next ridge!.

This area is still called the Golden Triangle but its notoriety as a big opiate area is past. Today the country is dotted with fruit trees, crops of rice, sunflower, and numerous things I couldn't put a name to. When you go on a tour you have a guide who will perhaps know the names and history but on your own you go places tours don't go. We think a little of both is a good balance. Before heading back to Chang Rai for the night we drove out to Mae Sai one of the official boarder crossings with Burma.

In all we  covered about 1200km and took in sights to the east and west of highway No.1. In hinesite it would have been better to bus to Chang Rai and hire a car there. There is not a lot to see en-route and its quite a long journey.

More Photos of ChangMai and ChangRai