Penang September 09

Here we come again. We really didn't think we would be in Penang again so soon however its never disappointing to be here. The main reason for our return has been a change of plans relating to Taipan interior. We did quite a lot of work on Taipan in Phuket and have decided to return to complete the work. Hence back to Phuket via Penang.

Sailing to Penang from port Dixon has been fair with light wind and no rain. We have had little sailing but we did catch a nice mackerel on the final day. Always a treat.

Both David and I have been attending a Dentist here in Penang. Its still an unpleasant experience but the up side is that the service is a lot cheaper and quicker than Australia. The dentist is very good and previous work has been very satisfactory. We have 2 more appointments each but will take the ferry from Langkawi to Penang for those. We had planned to depart Penang on the 30th however weather hasn't been favourable so we have delayed. We have a few things to do in Langkawi before sailing to Phuket.

Its always good to catch up with old friends and Egress 11 were in port so we spent time with Jack and Norma which is always a delight.

Graham from Quiet Achiever has returned from a tour of east coast Malaysia and we have caught up with him also for several excellent Indian dinners.

On Sunday morning we made the supreme effort to arise early and walk to the E&O Hotel for a fabulous buffet breakfast. A "must do" in Penang

Little Penang Street market which only happens monthly was on last Sunday so we were lucky to catch that and strolled enjoying the crafts and music after breakfast. I bought a fabulous piece of cloth, once the pelmet cover in a Chinese shop house somewhere. Its old and battered but will provide endless hours of creative entertainment for me.

Hitori and Machiko friends from Penang invited us to yet another stunning Japanese meal in their home.

We were in for a pleasant surprise one evening when during the course of our delicious vegetarian meal at Sri Annanda Bawan we were delighted to discover that the last day of the Festival to honour the Goddess Mariamman. This village goddess is considered the root or body of the village and Tamil Nadu people almost universally revere this goddess. In Penang the goddess was displayed in an ornate wagon shrine into which 2 brahman bulls were harnesses to parade the goddess thru the streets of Georgetown. At the indian shops and houses the procession stopped to bless offerings which were returned to their owners. Accompanying the procession were a troupe of dancers and misicians. The indian women and girls were dressed in the most vibrant and beautiful saris. The night was really exciting and everyone was friendly and keen to share information on the event.

http://philtar.ucsm.ac.uk/encyclopedia/hindu/ascetic/mariam.html

New Marina at Melacca

We left Singapore on Sep 9th with no wind except about 5 kn on the nose. That sailor speak for "we motor-sailed" .Arrived port Dixon Friday 11th

On Saturday we hired a car and drove the 90km to Melacca via the scenic coastal route, getting lost a couple of times along the way for a bit of interest. Spent the night in a fair to average hotel and visited several of the museums. Melacca is packed with things to do and see. Its a really old spice trade centre with abundant history and great food. We have visited before so this time we just spent wandering the old streets and poking about in the numerous antique and curio shops. There is a huge Mosque on a man made island which has big building development adjacent to it which although almost completed is deteriorating into a ruin. Amazing how many completed and almost completed projects are becoming ruins without ever being inhabited.

As we left town we ventured in the car to the coast where there is a lot of development occurring. Hundreds of barges are bringing tons of sand to reclaim miles of the waterfront for a new free way. As we sailed past quite close in on Friday we noticed a lot of new pylons and what appeared to be a wall surrounding a marina. Keen to discover whether one really does exist or may in the future we found the spot we had seen and sure enough. A new Marina!. It has one small yacht inside and the gate keeper gave us a phone number. We haven't made any further enquiries at this point but if interested this is the phone no. 062823552 Mr En Bachok.

The landmark imediatly behind the marina is "The Eye on Malaysia", a big ferris wheel! So you wont miss it!

TOM PRICE

On the 24th of July we finally downed tools and headed to Parabadoo on a Qantas flight. Tim and Vanessa were there to meet us and we drove the 80 km to Tom Price where they live and work.
Spectacular weather and clear clear skies...and air for those of you in Asia! Its a long time since we were in this area and its easy to forget just how beautiful it is. The flora is extraordinary in its diversity of color and texture. Flowers abound but are often small and delicate. We drove to Karnjini where the gorges provided great photographic opportunity. It was too cold to swim in the crystal clear pools at the bottom.
We were only there for four days but they were each filled with new and spectacular sights. The mine tour of Rio Tinto proved interesting in the immensity of the endeavor. Tim and Vanessa both work for Rio and have lived in TP for nearly 2 years now.
28th saw us winging our way south again with a camera full of pics and some great memories. Thanks Tim and Vanessa.

"Langford" April to July 09

On the 14th of April, after the Wacky Bush Wedding we moved to the farm house on "Langford" our farming property just north of Albany. Its roughly 400ac. and predominantly a forestry. Blue Gums for paper pulp. There is just 50ac of pasture and the house is rented.
The house was extensively renovated about 15 years ago and now none of the original house is visible from the outside. The plan was to add a big solar passive living space and new wet areas and office. Then to re clad the exterior of the old house , build verandas and replace all the windows. Construction was Stabilized Earth Blocks. These are made using Road Base and Cement. We made the 8000 brick and 200 paving slabs for the house over a 6 month period and then built the house. 80 ton of Gravel and 8 ton of cement went into the concrete mixer and out into a barrow..then into the moulds... and then they were stacked. This was all done by hand!!!. The brickwork was laid in gravel mortar and then all the joints were pointed up with a sand and ochre mix. A time consuming and laborious job but well worth the effort, from a purely aesthetic view. I don't need to tell you that all this history makes for a fairly strong sense of ownership. Not to mention a fair helping of satisfaction as one sits back and admires the finished result which is of a quiet, warm and functional home.
There had been no one living in the house for over 6 months and the grounds, particularly, were looking very dejected as a result of a lot of windfall storm damage. Inside was clean and tidy and very empty. We dragged some furniture over to the house from the locked storage room adjacent to the house and made ourselves moderately comfortable. Winter had set in although the days remained bright and sunny. Mornings were really cold.
The objective was to replace the lining in the main bedroom and build Built In Robes. Re tile the ensuite, repair some old termite damage in the roofing, re carpet throughout, replace several doors etc. This project went on and on...and on...until the 19th of August when we finished the fencing by torch-light. Tenants had moved in on the 18th.
Well you may be wondering how it took so long. The jobs grew bigger and the projects more extensive. A deck was added to the back over the big pond. The house was repainted inside and out. The waterfall glass windows were stripped and the sills replaced. Extra sills were installed to windows hitherto without them. The sun-room indoor garden had new jarrah tops made.Exhaust Fans replaced. Barge boards and gable ends replaced or added.Brickwork pointing with mortar. Guttering replaced or repaired. Underground pipes replaced. Shed interior demolished. Garden beds mulched with chips, Mountains of storm felled trees were heaped and burned, along with a great heap of junk abandoned by tenants gone bye. Fencing replaced or repaired and electrified..and all of this we did without any outside help.!!!..sigh. I really thought we might be permanently land locked.
The upside was that there were many, many visitors. Family and friends dropped by regularly to check on the progress and break the monotony of work. We are also indebted to friends and family who loaned us tools, as all ours are on Taipan.
The house has 2 slow combustion fires. A huge one in the lounge and a Rayburn cooker in the kitchen. The house was very snug although wood gathering became a regular event to keep up to the hungry fires. As the weather got progressively colder the heating was much appreciated.
We took great pleasure in observing daily, the large number and variety of birds which frequented the pond in front of the sunroom. Smokers, Greenies, Western Red Rozellas, Black cockatoos, Kookaburras, Shrikes, Honey Eaters, Red and Yellow Breasted Robins, Willy Wag Tails, Fantails, Egret, Mudlarks, Magpies, Crows and Whistlers. Several other varieties with which I am unfamiliar.
Well by the time we left exhausted and pleased to be going, the house and grounds were all in pretty good shape. New tenants were nesting and seem very happy with the house.

Wacky Bush Wedding

Intrepid campers wove their merry way into the wilds of Narrikup in the south of WA at Easter to attend the wedding of the year!. A wedding they will never forget. No electric power or refrigeration. Plenty of ice though. Limited running water and Kenny toilets. On the upside though the refreshments flowed freely and the food kept coming.
Many guests stayed 2 nights and some stayed 3 or 4. Horses in floats and dogs in utes came together in a frenzy of pole erections and swag laying. Yachting friends, at home sailing in the mild climes of Asia, braved the cold, donned Drizabones and headed our way on flights from Bali, Singapore, Phuket and KL. Several boarding school mates flew in from the east coast. Sally H saw most of the weekend through the lens of her camera. The Chef, Wendy, flew in from New Zealand and has stayed on in the sunny west. Jo and daughter Gen arrived from Melbourne ..eventually! (thats a whole other story)
Beavering away at the piles of farm junk accumulated in and around the wedding venue saw David, Wendy, (who arrive a week early thankfully) and I suitable knackered by the big day. Fortunatly there were a big band of merry helpers ready to lay their backs to the wheel. Tin went on the wall, wood was gathered, the Big Wood Water Heater was designed and built by my beloved brother Vern. And what treasures they both are! Harley, a neighbor, blazed the trail to the camp with his fabulous new tractor and slasher. Balloons were blown and we were ready to party. Stuff was gathered from generous friends to facilitate the day. Eskies, generator, cables, ropes and tarps to name a few. The forecast was bleak!
Dawn of the big day was a little grey, however, although the sun didnt shine, it was mild and fine. Jumpers went on and off again. Horses were warmed up ready for the fray. Bridesmaides saddled Jumangi for Kris, donned their Akubras and mounted their trusty steeds. Most were pretty fresh and some, downright feral!. The bride issued with a steadying glass of Champagne, was hustled to the salon for a touch up job by Daun and Richelle.
Mobs of bods started arriving and a freshly painted bride was seen scampering off in the direction of the horse camp to pick up the "posie".
Drums rolled as Jim cranked up "Water Music" by Pavarotti on the ute stereo, the gathering gathered, and the clip clop of neddies was heard coming around the dam.
An elegant if somewhat eclectic cavalcade hove into view led variously by Lilly, Ferne with Savannah, Jean, Sally, Kris, Jo, or Michelle, depending upon who's steed was under control!.
David met the Bride in a timely fashion ( that is to say before she was unceremoniously dumped off) and ably assisted her to dismount, whereupon she was led away to the podium to be wed.

Captain Ganghook, alias Chris Morris, presided over the formalities and vows were variously exchanged amid much hilarity. (See excerpt attached)
Davids son Tim and Kris's son Jason were the whiteness's and never were there two finer whiteness's. Kate Thomas was the official Celebrant and kept the whole rabble in general order to ensure that the legal requirements were met. A fine job she did too!
To seal the bargain Gary and Libby provided an awesome bottle of champagne complete with gold in bubbles! This was to be the only gold about on the day and what better way to enjoy it than to get it in you!

Let the party begin. Only one speech. Colin made a considerably suitable and entertaining speech, elucidating some of Kris's past and inviting David into the fold. After this everything got a little relaxed and no more speakers came forward. Only serious eating, drinking, and yarn swapping left to do. Wendy had slaved over the slow combustion Rayburn to produce a veritable feast. Meat from Mount Barker meats was tender and tasty farm grown local food. Stayers were still partying until 4 but most good bush folk were in the sack by the bewitching hour.

The morning after: its a long slow BBQ breakfast, a bit of quiet strolling in the scrub, visits to horses or other camps and for the more energetic, a horse ride round the farm. There was a general long slow wind down and a gradual departure. 1 44gal Drum full of empty wine and champagne and another full of beer cans and bottles attested to the capacity of the 70 + guests consumption ability. There was still plenty cold in the chilly bins though. The dying embers of the Hot Water Heater signaled the end of a fun and memorable Easter weekend.


We had a lot of fun and hope all who attended did too. David and I would like to thank all those who came, played and pitched in and made this such a memorable weekend. We are looking forward to our return home to quaff the excellent vintages so generously gifted to us. Thank you

More Pics in Taipans Picassa Album. See link on right of page

Penang 2nd of Feburary 09

-----------We arrived in the Marina in Penang. Tanjong City Marina. The less said the better. Its redeeming feature is that it is adjacent to one of the best cultural centres in Asia. George Town is a World Heritage listed site and is a living Museum of Chinese, Indian and Malay culture. The most diverse food and cultural heritage combined with fabulous architecture dating from the 1700's . To cap the experience here its the finale of Chinese New Year Celebrations and Thaipusam.
Thaipusam is an Indian festival. Body piercing extreme in which devotees indulge to fulfil their vows to the Lord Muruga. Symbolic milk pots are carried and many have them attached to fish hooks and hung all over their bodies. Large fish hooks are also inserted through the body and tied to ropes which in turn are tied to carts or held firmly by a follower. Gruesome and fascinating. The Kavadis are heavy frames worn over the shoulders and held aloft for the duration. They are often attached by rods which pass through the skin and back to the structure to hold it in place...photos should tell it all. The whole procession which is miles long goes to a temple up 270 steps on the mountainside. Music blaring and lots of dancing and free food ensure this is a celebration you wont forget in a hurry. The piercing is banned in Tamil Nadu south India so many devotees make the journey to Malaysia to participate in this festival.
We also found a good tailor in Penang and can recommend Jag Men Fashion at Level 2 Komtar. Phone Desmond on Mob 0164058309






Hitori and Machiko, artists and friends from Penang also hosted us to a stunning Japanese dinner in their home whilst we were there. We were able to reciprocate by taking them sailing down to Batu Muang and en route to sail past the fabulous sculpture on the water front designed by Hitori. They hadn't had the opportunity to view it from the water previously so this was a great thrill for us all.
Onward towards Singapore coming next.

South to Singapore

On the 16th of January we picked up Annmarie from the Airport in Phuket. We've long been looking forward to this visit. First off was a flurry of shopping and on the 17th a big 60th birthday for Pam off "Tweed" was celebrated at Nai Yang Seafood with great gusto again. Many farewells said and hugs as we farewell our good friends Martha and Bryce on "Silver Fern" who have decided to head west!!... off to the big Indian Ocean. Very sad to see them go. Have a FAT TIME!
Gerry on "Scipio" and his friend and crew Lynn also off in a similar direction. Good Luck. We'll see you in France!
After a few minor engine repairs we headed towards Langkawi, clearing out at Ao Chalong, we then spent our last evening with Jocko and Wendy on "Synergy" and were sad to farewell Wendy. She will fly out to New Zealand on the 9th.
Our first night out was at an anchorage at the north end of Phi Phi Don. Next day we stopped for lunch at Ko Mai Phai and did some snorkelling on route to Ko Lanta for dinner. Next destination Ko Muk. We diverted to Ko Ha to snorkel, however although it is lovely and clear we felt it was tricky in the current and not worth the effort. Ko Muk is our favourite anchorage in the bay. There's a great walk from the small north west anchorage around the island to Charlie's resort on the southern end. Its about 8 km and the first 4 km is through fairly overgrown tracks which winde up and over the island through rubber plantation and natural jungle. There are several interesting workers houses where the the latex undergoes its first drying process. At Charlie's you can catch a long-tail to return you to your boat. It is advisable to wear long trousers and good shoes, carry a stick. We have never seen a snake but worth taking the precaution. A visit to the emerald cave for sundowners after all the tour boats finish for the day is an especially lovely way to relax and reflect on the the beauty and tranquillity of Phang Nga Bay.
There is good snorkelling (relatively) on the South west side of the small north western bay, around the big rocks. David got an ear infection whilst diving so he missed the big walk and the snorkelling but not the sundowners!We had two glorious nights at Ko Muk, totally enjoying the crystal clear water and secluded anchorage amidst towering karst scenery.
Our next destination, Ko Rok Nok was an all day affair with not much wind to assist. Then another early start to The Butang group. This was our first visit here and we were delighted to find a secluded white sand beach with beautiful trees overhanging to provide shade and excellent snorkelling offshore around the two small islands on the north side of Ko Butang at 06 32.46N 099 09.63E. There are three moorings here at this time and all seem secure. We over-nighted quite comfortably on a large yellow one. The current is quite strong through here so we snorkelled with the dingy in tow.
27th of January saw our arrival at Telaga anchorage, Langkawi, for Immigration procedures and quick sight seeing with Annmarie prior to her departure on the 28th. What a lovely lazy time we all had and how sad we were to say good-by. Return soon!!!
Langkawi for some provisioning and on the 1st of February we headed out to Palu Paya about 20nm south east of Kuah. Good wind and very comfortable sailing meant we made it in early so we elected to head on to Palu Bunting. Low and behold...a huge bridge before out eyes! Apparition surely? This structure joining the mainland to this totaly uninhabited jungle clad island must be the epitome of Malaysian waste. You certainly know you are back in Malaysia.

Hellfire Pass, Kanchanaburi and Bangkok

On the 5th of January we all flew to Bangkok where we were met by Ponchai in his luxury 12 seater tour bus and taken out to Kanchanaburi.We arrived late at the Blue Star Guest House
( www.bluestar-guesthouse.com Phone Thailand 034512161) and were shown to lovely rooms for 300Tb per night per couple. The Blue Star provided very good value and excellent meals. The following morning Ayer, the operations manager at the Hellfire Pass Museum met us and Poochai drove us the 80 km up to the Museum.
The Hellfire Pass Museum was established and is maintained by the Australian Government as a monument to the POW's from Australia, England, America and Holland, who under Japanese command, built the 415 km long Thai Burma "Death" railway during the 2nd World War. Work commenced on the 2nd of September 1942 and was completed on the 25th of December 1943 Just 16 months!! The deaths of prisoners was caused by overwork, starvation, beatings, disease and injury. The numbers are appalling. More than 16,000 POW,s and 100,000 impressed Asian labourers died.
Hellfire Pass or Konyu Cutting, is but one of the numerous cuttings constructed using hammer and Tap tequnique by the starved and beaten prisoners. The entire route is constructed of rail line over bridges, through cuttings and viaducts throught rough and difficult terrain. There is a walking trail for 4 km along an actual reconstruction of the line which we didnt have time to do. The exhibits are exceptional and the Museum is a must do if visiting Thailand. it would be especially moving to attend an Anzac Day memorial dawn service in the cutting.
It was at Colin's instigation that we found ourselves in Kanchanaburi as he has several friends who were POW's on the railway project and was therefore very keen to see it. We would highly recommend a visit to the area also but to make the effort to go the 80km out to the Museum and Pass.
Hintok River Camp on the Kwai and close to the Helfire Pass Museum would be a great place to stop over. We lunched there. see wwwhintokcamp.com
Kanchanaburi itself is a fairly large town on the River Kwai, famous for its bridge. The Bridge over the River Kwai was constructed by POW's using bridge components bought in by the Japanese from Java, It was a strategic crossing and was bombed many times by the Allies in an attempt to cut the supply line from Burma. Unfortunately the Japanese used POW's as human shields to try to prevent bombings to no avail. The prisoners were also camped very close to the bridge as a deterrent and this also caused severe injury and fatality amongst their ranks. The prisoners made every endeavour whilst constructing the bridge and the railway to undermine its structure and facilitate failure under load. This practice, if detected was punished severely. Punishments were harsh and often fatal.
We made a pre-dawn pilgrimage to the Bridge walking from our hotel for 15 minutes in the cool quiet morning air. There were a few sleepy stall holders setting up. Early coffee and watching the monks on their ritual alms collecting round provided interest as we awaited the first train and sunrise for a photograph or two. Back to the hotel for breakfast then a big day at the two huge war cemeteries. It is interesting that the Japanese, so cruel and ruthless, allowed the prisoners to bury their dead with some piety. They often attended the funerals and allowed the prisoners to be buried with all their identification. When the Australian War Graves Commission commenced the exhumation of interred soldiers for identification and reburial this facilitated their gruesome task.
Their remains are now buried , in two beautifully maintained cemeteries in Kanchanaburi A headstone marks the name and details of each soldier.
Across the street is another excellent museum of the period called the Thailand - Burma Railway Center. www.tbrconline.com
It is interesting conjecture that the Australian government is planning to hand over the Hellfire Pass Museum to the Thais. Should this happen is is widely believed that the Japanese, quite influential financially in the region, will put pressure on the Thai's to endeavour to have the history "modified" so as to present them in a better light!!
Thank you to Ayer, Bill and Poochai for your help and guidance during our visit.
Back to Bangkok and to the stately and comfortable Sommerset Hotel for 2 nights. A visit to the Grand Palace, established 1782 houses the royal residences, throne halls and several government offices as well as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. It was in stark contrast to the previous few days with luxurious jewels gold and glitter everywhere the eye roved. The complex is enormous, 218,000 square meters and justifies some serious research before a visit and plenty of time to browse. There is almost 8 km of internal wall mural. A whole day with a long lunch break recommended. Photo opportunities abound but require plenty of patience as the crowd is unrelenting. Don't be caught purchasing "appropriate" clothing outside the gates. Its available free for loan inside if your attire is deemed unsuitable.
Colin and Edna flew out of Bangkok on the 9th of January and we returned to Phuket and to Taipan the same evening. Really sad to say farewell and looking forward to seeing them again in March, back in Australia.

Xmas 2008 in Phuket

We've had an exciting and busy time in the past couple of months. We arrived in Phuket on the 20th of November after a pleasant sojourn in company with "Tweed", exploring Phang Nga Bay between Langkawi and Ao Chalong.
Chris Cook and Djep arrived in Phuket for a few days in early December.
On the 9th we celebrated Kris's Birthday at Nai Yang Seafood with all our fantastic friends.
Then Colin and Edna, Kris's mum and dad, flew in on the 13th of December from Australia. There followed a flurry of sight seeing before taking them on a 3 day sail into Phang Nga Bay then back to Yacht Haven. Edna and Colin then spent a couple of days at a small resort on Kamala Beach. During this period we all went shopping and provisioning preparative to the grand Xmas adventure out in the bay. The chosen beach was Cable Beach on Ko Yo Yai, 3 hours pleasant sailing from Yacht Haven. Its a pretty sandy beach with Palm trees and Casurinas for a bit of Australian flavour. Its major attraction however is that it is uninhabited, a rare thing for a nice beach in Thailand.
David and Colin immediately set to work ashore with plans for the construction of a table in anticipation of great feasting. A rake was also ordered to clear traditional Thai debris (thongs, plastic bottles fishing floats, bits of net and such) from the immediate surrounds. It wasn't very long before three curious local lads arrived on a motor bike and without any prompting they joined the team.
The table required a considerable number of thin poles, and David, reluctant to attack the native flora indicated to the boys what he required. Forthwith they snatched his big machete and dashed into the jungle. A short while later returning with a pile of poles and palm leaves to cover the top
Using the electric drill and a copious number of stainless steel screws, the lads set to work to create the frame of the 15 ft long 4 ft wide table. David showed them how the electric zip ties work and they soon used the ships generous supply of those in fastening the palm leaves to the top. I think every palm leaf had its own zip tie.
The completed rake is a work of art, both in form and function!.
"Jaraman", "Tweed" and "More Magic" arrived in a fog of the delicious aromas of cooking xmas fare.
Xmas Eve we all feasted on More Magic and sang loud and long, well known, and not so well known, Xmas carols.
Xmas Morning everyone was aboard "Taipan" for Santa's visit and champagne breakfast. The weather was looking threatening. This is the only time the Thai forecast has been correct. It forecast rain.
Undeterred, we made for the beach at sunset, laid out the banquet and got the feasting under way. Sumptuous fat stuffed Turkey, Ham from Australia, Duck with Orange, Prawn salad and roasted veggies, all finished off with Plum Pudding, Brandy Sauce and cream. Well it rained...and rained and we all got soaked, our party hats ran into our clothes and dyed our hair, but the umbrellas kept the food dry. It wasn't cold and with good company, a few champagnes and wines down the hatch we barely noticed.
The Boxing Day Beach Boules Tournament saw everyone back on the beach for furthur epicurean and alcohol delights and it was a hotly contested competition between the guys and dolls. The Dolls ...including the honorary ones...won the day. The evening repast was held on Jaraman, the crews all still going strong after a marathon Xmas effort.
Edna's 81st birthday on the 27th saw us back at Yacht haven and off again to Naii Yang Seafood. This top seafood restaurant once again hosted the evening in superb style with Oysters of the highest quality, their speciality.
New Years Eve its all aboard Taipan in Panwa Bali on the southern end of Phuket after abandoning the traditional New Years Eve venue of Patong owing to unrelenting rolling. Tweed and Crystal Blues joined us aboard and the night whizzed by in a blur of fireworks food and alcohol. Neil and Edna share the sir name "Langford" so there was some family history to explore. Its likely that there is some link going back to Wales in the last century! A great night was had by all and we all saw a good bit of the new year in!

Distances from various anchorages on the East Coast.

Encounter with a FAD

Terengganu to Kapas to Kemmerman day sails south. Uneventful which is how we like it. Given that the weather was lovely and the sailing great, the decision was made that we would overnight straight to Tioman to clear out of Malaysia and start heading back to Singapore and up the west coast.

BAD idea. That's when the big bright moon decided to go hide behind the building thunder heads and the wind totally died and we forgot that we'd promised each other that if the wind died we would just "bob about" till it returned, or until daylight returned. So without any proper discussion or thought we started the motor. Now I should tell the newbies that this coast and almost every part of Asia we have visited by boat has been littered with FAD's. That's Fish Attracting Devices. They range from whole houses with many families to the huge free floating, or moored, bamboo rafts, through to poles jammed into the sea floor. We had seen many of the latter, in the distance, on our trip north in blessed daylight, and, yes you can guess what happened in the dead of the black night. Kris was perched watchfull and peering into the inky blackness with only an occasional flash of lightening to see by when there is was a streak of white rope racing towards her down the port side. No time to reach across to the throttle to throw the Volvo out of gear.
Too late we are dead stopped, engine stalled, and going no where. The good bit was that the revs were very low so the likely damage from such an encounter was minimised. Scanning about and there were 3 poles sticking out of the water within 3 meters of us in 25 meters of water!. The sea was calm and only a slight bobbing movement of Taipan on the one and a half inch mooring line we had picked up with our prop. We now know that the fishermen tie to these lines and fish over the side around the sticks. Our rope cutter was out of its depth here with the size of this line!
We were also out of our depth and there was no "drawing of straws" to see who goes over the side to cut us free! David goes!. Its his prop!. I don't "do" overboard in the dark!. And it turns out neither does David!! Two hours to dawn so we wait.
In the murky gloom of a very overcast morning it was revealed that with a little ingenuity we could cut the main line, from the dingy, and let Taipan drift with the current, away from the FAD's... You never know what fish are actually being attracted down there! This manoeuvre was successfully accomplished by the good Capt'n and then once we were a suitable distance away David dived on it using our trusty Powerdive hookah. I might mention that this is a top piece of equipment for boat maintenance and worth every one of the expensive cents we spent on it!
The removal of 5 x 20lt plastic containers acting as floats and about 10m of rope loosely wound and looped around shaft, prop and skeg took only a couple of minutes, remembering that the FAD was not that far away! Those 3 poles and that mooring were the only things on the whole horizon!
Roll on Tioman Island. In before lunch and very pleased too! We must buy an underwater dive torch!!

Snorkeling Sniffling and Singing

Taipan left Tioman Marina on the 9th of September for the 72NM run to Kuantan. To late and wrong tide for entry so we anchored on the coast. Bonused a nice dolphin fish for the next few dinners.

The 35nm to Kemerman was a delightful kite run. The entry is wide and quite deep enough for our 2.2M draft however if a big south - easterly sea was running it might be touch and go at low tide right at the entrance. OH!.. Allah! Kemerman has the noisiest Mosque we have ever heard. Must be like Wembley Stadium at the Soccer finals!. We didn't go ashore, because the tide was too low to access the very high wall on the river bank alongside the city. There were fire crackers all around and these went off all night! Must have been something on?? Ramedan! The quieter anchorage is opposite the police dock not far inside the river. The town anchorage would provide very easy access to supplies and services. However a higher tide would make it easier to get ashore.
Next stop Tenggol. A very pretty island with a deep anchorage and a number of buoys. We picked up a mooring buoy for 2 nights and enjoyed lovely weather and good snorkeling. Not stunning but quite clear and apart from the junk quite entertaining.There are no facilities here although there are 4 very low key resorts which don’t cater to outside visitors.
Kapas Isl 36nm, is just 10nm south of Terengganu. It is a really busy tourist spot. Water not so clear when we were there and there were plenty of "jellies" so we didn't swim here. Stayed two nights in a very comfortable anchorage on the north west of the larger island. We believe there is some excellent snorkelling on the reef between the two islands and have since been advised that the jellies here have no sting. There are several large moorings which we saw other yachts pick up but the anchorage is shallow and on good sand so we didn't use one.
Arrived at Terengganu on the15th of September. The Heritage Bay Marina is well placed and easy to find straight up the river. All modern facilities including Gym Spa but not use of resort pool. We dingied across the river, tied the dingy on the beach adjacent to the town steps and walked to the shops. There is also a good anchorage just to the east of the marina.
Terengganu is a big centre with several very large and well stocked supermarkets, an excellent morning fresh market just a very short walk from the town steps Chinatown has some great restaurants. We only got a chance to sample one but have it on good authority that there are many more to choose from.
The arrival of Hanly and Bill at Terrenganu on the16th was greeted with great joy. Bill has manufactured a beautiful prop puller. (See photo of Bill explaining its intricacies to the good Capt'n)Every yachities dream and Hanly has an extra 2 bottles of Cointreau. Necessary refreshment for yachties after exhausting swimming and snorkeling in crystal clear water of east coast Malaysia. Couple of days spent in Terrengganu purchasing limes by the lorry load and then with all the provisioning laid in we were off to Redang.
Then things went a bit pear shaped. David and I got the flue!..Nasty....10 days in state of sickness ...no cointreau...very little of anything in fact. The new chums managed to keep busy with swimming snorkelling and dingy rides here and there. Redang is a great island with snow white beaches and good anchorages. We holed up in Berjaya Bay on the north east side. Not much coral to speak of but nice swimming. We finally managed to drag our bones to Perhentian Islands where we stayed low while the guests did lots of eating and drinking and swimming and sleeping and singing. Hanly plans to add the eucalalie to her instrument repertoire so watch this spot for new music from "Doris" http://www.doris.com.au/. Watercolours restaurant was a favourite eating and drinking spot. Hanly slept till 9.00 o'clock one morning!!.
Finally with the flue a little behind us we were able to do some dives and enjoy the really lovely coral and fish in spectacularly clear water. The colour is just remarkable.
28th September and making our way back to Redang. Found some really good snorkeling on the eastern side and would love to go back to explore further.
Palau Bidong was an interesting lunch stop en-route to Terengganu. It was a refugee camp for Vietnamese refugees from the mid 70s to the early 90's. It’s very dilapidated and run down but there are some interesting and moving memorials and plaques. Its a lovely spot and well worth the visit.
Farewell to our special friends and thanks for the visit. Great sailors and great company both.

Tioman Island

Tioman Island.

Taipan arrived from Sebana Cove where we cleared in from Singapore on the 13th of July. Had a fabulous sail from Singapore with the kite up for a lot of the time. Best visibility we have had for a very long time.
This new marina although very small, is new, clean and the amenities are in place but not yet open. The power is still free and the water is 10MR per month or any part thereof.
We had time to do a lot of the little non urgent jobs which we have been putting off for ages. New Icom 710 is installed and working fine with two computers now set up to handle it. Computers have had a big clean up and one has been totally reformatted and reloaded. Both outboard engines have had repairs and service. Engine service was due and has been done.
Our trusty old Hoover Twin Tub which has served us well for the past 4 years has jumped ship and is now in semi retirement on the dock at Tioman ready and willing to serve the weary yachtie women..and men if they want.
Lighting is being upgraded with a new light being installed in the fridge...easier to find the beer! The bilge drainage system has been modified and should be a lot more efficient with only 1 pump having the bulk of the load. We have 2 other pumps in reserve. A new tap has been installed in the aft head with a shower head ready for the big bathroom refit in November.
We caught the ferry to Mersing where we purchased a Sierra Wireless Aircard 875u and an internet service connection with Celcom. It has proved very reliable and we have had effective email and internet almost without interuption all the way up the coast.
We decided not to go to Borneo this season but to head further north to explore the Islands on the east coast of the Peninsular. So it was a big farewell to Egress ll heading to Miri and then onward to Australia next season and to Synergy still holding the couch down in Tioman!
Taipan off north to pick up friends from Australia arriving in Terengganu on the 16th of August for 3 weeks.

Migration South

Left: Celebrating David's birthday with Jon and Pam "Tweed" and Nik and Zara from Yacht Haven
Phuket is our favourite spot but the weather, at this time of the year, leaves a lot to be desired so we have been forced to migrate south. This annual migration usually commences long before Taipan gets under way.
Returning from the Andaman Islands in April several things conspired to keep us at the wonderful Yacht Haven where we based ourselves again to install the new aluminium 250lt diesel tank built for us by Luck Engineering. This took several weeks to install and works perfectly increasing our motoring range, in this windless part of the world, to 1000NM. We spent a week in Nick and Zara's fabulous new home ....with aircon and a pool.... being pampered by Munchie Cat and me doing some running repairs to some of Taipan's canvas covers.
Chris a friend from Australia came to visit for a week and celebrated his 60th with us so we took the opportunity to take a break in beautiful Phang Nga Bay exploring yet more of the stunning limestone cast formations.
With so many great friends at Yacht Haven we find it hard to leave and wishing to spend David's 61st Birthday on the 18th of May in their company our departure was again delayed. The oysters are also irresistible.
Having recovered from the birthday celebrations, Thursday 22nd May( Savannaha's 1st Birthday) sees final tearful farewells as we slip the lines and drift off down the channel in gorgeous sunshine to Ko Nakka Noi. 23rd a great sailing day and a nice Spanish Mackrel in the bag provides fresh fish for the rest of the trip.Ko Ngai then Taratao and into Rebak Marina Langkawi and reunion with old sailing buddies Chris and Daun in the new More Magic.
Celebrations all round and then into serious work again. Haulout for a cutlass bearing replacement. Should have done that last November when we hauled out. some things just get forgotten till you start the motor again and that dreaded rattle starts a rattling! While we are out David repositions an earth plate to use as the Antenna Tuner earth on the radio. The rudder stock just dosnt cut it! 5 nights on the hard is sime sort of record for us.
Relaunched on the 31st of May and ready for the next leg of the migration south.
It takes till the 9th of June to drag ourselves off to Penang with a boat full of duty free fuel for the boat and vino for the crew.
Penang. A great city full of gorgeous food and art. Visited all our favourite haunts for some culinary adventures and to catch a few old friends. 5 nights sees the trip to the dentist and a few routine medical matters attended to and we are off south again.
Port Dixons Admiral Marina is a good stop over for a trip to Kuala Lumpur. Several buses and trains and most of the day but very easy and comfortable. 3 Nights in PD and south again to Singapore. Two overnight anchorages and into One 15 Marina on Mon 23rd June. Most of the trip was in pleasant if light weather. Anchorages were all good and Taipan's new cutlass bearing has never been quieter.

Singapore is still busy, noisy and the people are self absorbed and don't make contact readily. There are some good services and suppliers here but as a general rule it is very expensive.

We have bought and installed a new front loading automatic washing machine and it also doubles as a television!!
A new Icom M710 has replaced our trusty SEA222 HF Radio and has taken up even more room in the nav station than the old one!. It seems to work well and I'm sure we will come to love it.!! Marc from Pactor Australia has been a huge help and a great resource once again in setting it all up and helping with hard to obtain cables and software. Thank you Marc Robinson! Contact Pca.cc or Ph +61 230114928.
We found a very competent company in Singapore for the repair of Inverters and Battery Chargers. Continental Electronic Enterpirse in the basement of Sim Lim Tower. They have been truly excellent.
Next stop is Sebana Cove, Malaysia, South East; to clear in and await the arrival of a new #G modem for internet access aboard (see Crystal Blues website in our Favourites) then off to the Tioman Islands en route to Borneo.

Andaman Islands March & April 2008

The Andaman and Nicobar Islands run in and extensive island chain over 800nm long in a roughly north south line 350nm west of Peninsular Thailand. It is a geological extension of Sumatra and as such received extensive damage from the earthquake and subsequent tsunami off Northern Sumatra in December 2004. The damage and necessary reconstruction work has put the Car Nicobar group to the south off the cruising map. Permits are impossible to obtain and even Indian nationals must obtain permits to enter the area.
Taipan arrived Port Blair the capital of the island state at 300am on Monday 10th of March. We had reasonable conditions for most of the trip and caught several fish at the Invisible Banks 40nm south of Port Blair
Clearing process was surprisingly fast and all formalities were completed by 7.00 pm that evening. Or so we thought!. A visit to the Port Captain on Tuesday morning put paid to that idea!. We were advised that because we had several Wildlife Sanctuaries listed on our itinerary we needed to obtain permits from the Wildlife Warden. No Worries! 4 days later and much frustrated in the attempt we had the permit and only needed to find someone to pay to ratify the piece of paper!... well eventually we discovered that the 3 days we wanted to spend around wildlife sanctuaries was going to cost us in excess of A$1000 so we abandoned those plans and cleared out as fast as possible.
Ravi was our guide and driver and he was very good. During our wait he showed us round the island and took us to some great restaurants. Introduced us to Tasneem the lovely young Indian Wildlife Researcher who is writing a handbook for visitors on the flora and fauna of the Andamans. tasneem@khans.ca
Contact Ravi at 09434262030
Left David Ravi and Vicky from Sarenety
Do not put any National Parks or Wildlife Sanctuaries on your Itinerary if you want to have a hassle free visit.
Friday 14th we are cleared to leave the harbour and headed south to
Chidyatapu. 11 30.17N 092 40.76E Very pretty spot with some infrastructure ashore which looked like a logging camp and we didn't go ashore to investigate. Unfortunately it was very roly and we were pleased to leave the following morning to negotiate the Mc Phearson Strait between South Andaman and Rutland Island. Weather was superb and remained so for over 3 weeks. After leaving the strait we entered the Mahatma Ghandi National Park. This is a very beautiful area with many islands set in the crystal clear water just begging exploration. Next time! Sailing north on the west coast we pass a group of palm leaf huts of the Jarawa Tribal s. They are a nomadic tribe living much as they always have in the remote west of the Middle and South Island. Many hectares of forest are Jarawa Tribal Land. Going ashore here is not permitted.
Port Campbell 11 55.3N 092 35.9E in 6 meters on mud. This is real wilderness and its tribal land. Superb anchorage and given more time would have spent several days here to appreciate the abundant bird life and amazing trees. Defence Island is particularly beautiful.
Sunday and motoring out of the anchorage beware of the unmarked reef in the middle of the bay. It extends along the 10m line for a mile or so from at least.....11 56.91N 092 35.0E!!
backtracking to our entry track we exit the area successfully and unscathed other than a scratch or two.... and a little stressed to continue north.
Spike Island 12 17.52N 092 44.4E 6 meters Mud. Two days spent here enjoying oysters and exploring in the dingy. There are tribal huts ashore here so no landing but again very spectacular flora. Several small boats of Jarawa came past but kept at a distance. The entrance here is well charted but inside is a fairy tale!.. beware the reef stretching to the north of the 1st island on the south after you pass spike island coming in from the west.
Interview Island. South Anchorage 12 47.35N 092 39.85E 8m on Sand. Very well protected despite the swell apparent. None in the anchorage. Startlingly clear water but a few snorkels later we are disappointed to say there is no corals to see here and very few fish. Double headed Parrot Fish were in evidence but little else. South Reef Island has some patches of live corals and some fish but nothing much. It is however very good fishing off the inside southern tip and we bagged a Red Emperor, Coral Trout and a Sweet Lips. The dingy ride was also very interesting with spectacular white limestone rock formations cut with caves. Deer roam this and many other islands and continue to devastate the forest. There is also a population of approximately 40 wild elephant here. They are the remnant population of a failed forestry project and were abandoned here some years ago. They are also doing irreparable damage as they are not indigenous to the Andaman but were bought there to assist with logging. We were advised by Tasneem that they are potentially dangerous.
Leaving the southern bay to head further up the island we hooked a nice size Bar Cheeked Coral Trout as we sailed across the rocky reef area south of South Reef Island. Our next anchorage has a all tide shore access so we can get ashore..watchful of elephants!
Middle Interview Island 12 48.60N 092 39.53E 8 meters on Sand. Litter ashore was a shock but to be expected on such an exposed shore line. South West Monsoon would really thrash this coast. A large wooden bowl, once used to pound tarot or grains perhaps, was found washed up on the shore and now graces our foredeck, doing service as a rope holder for the present!
Thursday 20th March sees us heading north to North Reef Island 13 04,587N 092 42.430E 10m on Sand in crystal clear water again. Unfortuantly the reef is very damaged and there are many fallen trees ashore. This is a sanctury and wildlife park....! so don't put it on your itinerary! The anchorage is really very beautiful and snorkling or not.. its a very nice place to while away a day or two..maybe dont go ashore?
Good Friday and we are still enjoying that Coral Trout. Hooked up a few biggies trolling but they all got off. Think a longer run might be necessary.. we only lost one lure though. Squid fishing at North Reef very rewarding so squid on the menu for the next few days. 22nm to the north to Paget Island.13 25.03N 092 49.61E 8m on Sand. There are two islands here and we swam and walked on the southerly one which has easy all tide access and good walking because the deer have decimated the undergrowth! This end of the Andaman group has been raised by the earthquake by up to 1500mm in places and the damage to the reef is mostly as a result of this. The southern end of South Andaman is lower by a meter and many rice farms reclaimed from the mangroves have been reclaimed by the sea. Charts are a fair way out requiring constant attention. Leaving Paget we hooked up on two Giant Trevally for a good bit of sport and fair eating while fresh. This always happens when the navigation is at its most critical.!!!
Excelsior Island in the Table Island Group now on the north east side of North Andaman. We sailed through the strait south of Landfall Island with ease in spite of the complicated looking chart. Excelsior is a truly beautiful spot. 13 25.74N 093 05.84E 10m Sand. Well protected from just about everything here. Three very pleasant days spent here exploring on foot and by dingy with no luck trolling but some good strikes. Snorkelling very patchy and for the most part disappointing however we did find a few good small patches to keep us amused for several hours each day. The best was the closest patch to the east of Taipan.
Smith Ross Island. 13 18.03N 093 03.95E 9 m on Sand. A good size Yellow Fin Tuna safely in the fridge on route. Smith Ross is also a Park so don't put it on the itinery!.. the snorkelling here was great in very small patches. Good protected anchorage and park facilities ashore. On North Andaman just west of the anchorage is the town of Diglipur where there is a market each day but not needing anything so we didn't go.
Maya Banda 12 55.33N 092 53.63E 10m mud. Nothing to recommend it! Its a long way in out of the way and having gone ashore I cant think of any reason to do so. Maya Banda is the filthiest place we have ever visited. Not exactly unfriendly but decidedly off hand.
27th March and we sailed to Outram Island south anchorage picking up a nice Wahoo on the way. Outram South 12 12.34N 093 05.72E 12 M on sand. This was just an overnight stop and in the morning we went to North Button Island to snorkel. The clarity of the water is unbelievable. We drifted for several hours on the southern side but the corals although plentiful and all very similar. Very few fish of any size although there were plenty of varieties of small ones. The fishermen are netting everything in long nets which we regularly found fouled on the coral. Tasneem tells us there has been an alarming and noticeable decline in fish numbers in the past 2 years and researchers are very worried about sustainability with the illegal fishing a problems.
Outram Harbour...12 15.03N 093 05.76E 7m mud. The perfect weather started to look a little less perfect so we anchored here hoping for protection from the forecast SW and SE weather. It was a blessing that we did because the next 3 days were less that pleasant. However we were very snug in our anchorage and were soon joined by Spirit of Ireland and another French yacht seeking shelter. We could hear the Black Andaman Woodpecker ashore but unfortunately didn't get a look at one. Ravi has promised to show us next time we visit!
During our stay at Outram Harbour (there is nothing here) we were visited by several groups of fishermen. One group of 10 men boarded Taipan to get a finger of one of them bandaged up. he had a nasty gash from a fishing knife inflicted the previous evening. It was looking remarkably good. They had packed it with turmeric??? I cleaned and dressed it in the conventional way somewhat unsure whether is would be better than the turmeric though.
Some other younger lads came aboard for a look and were hysterical with laughter when they met our stuffed cat! Mrs Chippy. We gave them some old clothes which they seemed very pleased with but they really wanted pens??? Next day they came to give us a fish and the smallest Lobster I have ever seen.
Inglis Island 12 08.07N 093 06.50E This has to be one of the most beautiful islands in the Andaman. My camera died back at Outram though so I don't have any pics for you! The exceptionally clear water and good corals and plenty of small fish made this spot our favourite snorkel spot. On the north side, using the Power Dive Hookah, we cruised with 2 enormous double headed parrot fish for some time which was a highlight. The current here can get pretty strong though so you need to pick your time. Heading in to Havelock #3 for the night we snatched another big GT and gave it to Spirit of Ireland. They invited us over to sashumi and we had a delicious meal aboard.
Havelock 12 02.14N 093 00.34E opposite the Forrestry building and a short walk to the village. This was a great village and I so missed my camera. People were really friendly and we ate in the small restaurants. Really just very basic sheds constructed of timber in the weather board style. Narrow frontages and mostly 2 storied. Very little glass in evidence..shutters are the order of the day. There must have been a special on blue paint.! This place is a must visit. Two great fruit and vegie markets at night and chai and curd to die for!. Internet service by pigeon i think but it exists! Great traditional Indian street food. We went from here to Henery Lawrence and to Inglis for more snorkling but Inglis definatly has to be the best. Rumours of crocodiles were put to rest for us by the local fishemen who insisted that there are no crocks any where near here. "Maybe down the south end of Havelock on the west side!"
With our visa due to expire we used the last couple of days to relax at Havelock #7. Truely a beautiful beach. This is the major tourist destination in the Andaman and many day trippers come from Port Blair by ferry to see Havelock #7 Interesting to watch Indian women in beautiful saris wade out into the breakers to bath with their men folk who wear fairly regular attire! They hire bathing costumes on the shore! Backpackers seem to gravitate here also and it is possible to scuba dive with an elephant for $1000US we were told!..The elephant has no real say in the matter though and is sometimes a pretty reluctant starter.
Sunday 6th of April and we headed off to Ross Island just outside Port Blair and anchored to visit the ruins of the British Command Post abandoned in 1945 after WWll occupation by the Japanese. The colony was established to incarcerate Indian Militants during the latter 19th century. These Freedom fighters, hero's of India, were attempting to oust the British Rulers from India. The Cellular Prison is a formidable place and a lot of it remains. We went to a light and sound show one evening which was very well done and well worth the effort. Ross Island itself was a thriving settlement with extensive buildings of stone erected using Indian convict labour. The buildings are now being destroyed by the Strangler Figs but the effect is awesome!...(Thank you to Thomas from Spirit of Ireland for the photos of Ross Island.)
Clearing out of Port Blair is a lot easier than clearing in but it still took 2 days and we didn't leave for Phuket until Wednesday the 9th of April Our freezer full of fish, a good belly full of Indian bureaucracy..and great Chicken Masala cooked for us by Ravi and served aboard Taipan. Tasneem also paid us a visit aboard before we left and we hope to keep in touch and look forward to the completion of her handbook.
Return journey was very peaceful, light wind, some with spinaker flying but mostly motoring.
More fish at Invisible Bank and Pilot Whales on several occasions during the trip.
We hope to return to the Andaman's again nest season and look forward to catching up with Ravi and Tasneem.
In summary it is not the snorkelling paradise we expected but the fishing was fantastic and the solitude was great. Water is clear and the forests are just awesome. Culture? Well there isn't really any indigenous art or craft and the tribal s are pretty much out of bounds anyway.

Australia for Xmas 2008

"Yaralla" Farm at Mount Barker Western Australia...Golden Summer!

A surprise visit planned for Edna, Kris's Mum, on her 80th Birthday was thwarted by her unexpected illness. The visit was underway when we were informed that Edna had been taken to Hospital. Plans are made to be revised so we raced off to Albany.
January was spent providing support to Edna and Colin during Edna's convalescence and she seems to be recovering very well.

Brother Vern's partner, Jo, also suffered a severe illness of unknown origin which put her in Intensive Care in Royal Perth Hospital for almost 3 months. Again, thankfully, Jo is now in Shenton Park Rehabilitation Centre in Perth and is making huge steps towards her recovery. Go Jo!!!

It was great to catch up with both our families and meet our new grand daughter, Savannah.

We flew back to Singapore on the 26th of January..Australia Day, to join Chris and Daun on the new "More Magic" for the final leg of the delivery from Hong Kong to Rebak Marina in Langkawi.

Malacca Malacca

We have been in Port Dixon for a week now with the inevitable jobs to do. This time it was a very small but persistent diesel leak in the port tank. Thankfully all our tanks are easily removed so the problem was rectified and cleanup achieved with a minimum of fuss.
Malacca is an old port city on the western Malay peninsular and was high on our list of priorities for a visit.
In the early 1400s, during the Ming dynasty, Cheng Ho a famous Chinese navigator first visited Malacca. He sailed to the area many times to trade used the port as a base to explore further west. His earlier visits saw the virtual annihilation of the coastal pirates by the sheer strength of numbers of his 270,000 man fleet! Cheng Ho's mission was as a Chinese ambassador and trader.He had no ambition to conquer foreign lands. He forged strong allegiances with the local ruling sultan who eventually made the trip to china to meet the Emperor. One of the Emperors daughters became the 6^th wife to the sultan and was installed with her 500 servants upon the hill overlooking the straights.
Later Portuguese, Dutch and English were to colonize the area. The resultant cultural mix has stamped the old city with its various influences in architecture, religion, art and cuisine.
Restoration commenced in the late 80’s and the area now enjoys tremendous popularity as a tourist destination. Cruise liners can be seen anchored off and the passengers are plied ashore and up the river in large tenders.
It’s approximately an hour’s drive to Malacca from Port Dixon’s Admiral Marina. Along with Jon, Pam (Tweed) and Jocko from Synergy we made the journey by hire car. We visited the Cheng Ho Museum, Architecture Museum, Old Portuguese Forts and Church ruins which house tomb stone tops dating back to the 1500s. There was just too much to see in a day so we hope to take a couple of nights there again on our voyage south next year.
Now we are heading north again to Langkawi and on to Phuket.

Exotic Penang

We left Rebak marina on Friday26th of October with following breeze providing a lovely sail to Penang about 65NM south east. Chris and Daun off "Magic", now sold... accompanied us for a break from boat selling. They are looking for a new boat to replace the beloved Magic. She was just a little too small for long term cruising at 35ft.

Our trolling lure attracted two big fish..... a shark and a nice Mackrel but we didnt land either and lost the Rapala deep diver to the shark! Bummer!! Still it means they are out there. so there is still hope
Here in Penang the food is still awsome. Sunday morning we went to the Eastern and Oriental Hotel, a lovely colonial hotel beautifully restored... and had a long lazy Sunday breakfast buffet....all for 12 ausie dollars. Returning, we happened upon the Little Penang Street monthly Market and were entertained by a group of very gracefull and ornately decorated Indian girls from the local Traditional Indian Dance Academy.

Deepavali the big Indian festival is due to commence and Little India is swarming with shoppers, stalls and blaring Indian music. Its particularly vibrant after dark and exotic incense fill the air. This celebration is akin to Christian Christmas with gift giving and bonhomie and plenty of food.

The streets of Georgetown adjacent to the marina provide an interesting adventure playground. Antique shops and galleries.... Must visit the beautiful restored Chinese Shop house gallery Alpha Ultra 83 China Street...A2 Gallery at 27 Bangkok Lane. When your tired of galleries you can explore the amazing Temples and Museums in the vicinity.
Its hot and steamy here as usual but there is a reasonable breeze in the Tanjong City Marina although it continues to be the most uncomfortable berth facility north of the Albany Jetty. Much surging and snatching. During one particularly nasty session our stern line snapped. Fortunatly we had several stern lines in possition. Dont forget that the current really runs through here if your ever planning to come in. All very well if there was some manoeuvring room ... which there isnt...
We plan to stay until around the 6th of November and will then make our way down to Port Dickson to visit Jon and Pam on Tweed and do some exploring in Malacca. Antiques and art... just for fun!...

Just Add Water

Splash!
We are in and what a welcome sound it is. Three weeks on the hard stand at Rebak Marina and Taipan has emerged free of old anti foul and of most of the dodgy paintwork done on the underside in Fremantle in 2004. Hopefully we wont be plagued with vast sheets of shedding anti foul and primer next time we haul out. New black anti-foul and a smart new red line on the black boot stripe to smarten her up.



A relaxed day in the beautiful pool here at the Marina and a day eating and shopping in Kuah and we are feeling nearly human again. Still some tidying up and aesthetic stuff to do however it will be a softly softly approach over the next few months.
Now in a pen with Internet on board so happy me! Next instalment will be from Penang where we plan to renew our visas for Thailand before returning.

Progress on the Hard

Well its Friday the 28th of September and yes we are still on the hard. The "hard" hard work has been completed and its all down hill from here we hope! The anti foul had to be removed back to the hull including primer as the job originally done in Fremantle in 2002 was so substandard that every time we've hauled out since, large areas of anti foul and primer have fallen off. They don't of course fall off uniformly all over the boat so a considerable amount has had to be painstakingly scraped off using paint stripper. Not a pleasant pass time!

We have finally got some good staff from Hamid and the progress has been more rapid over the past couple of days. There is much preparation work including washing sanding and painting still to be completed but we are getting there.

Last evening we attended the monthly Pool Side Buffet provided by the Marina at 40rg per head... thats about$15 A. The tables were all beautifuly decorated and there was endless fabulous food. We had saved up all day of course and had a thoroughly enjoyable night. Fantastic service, great live music, all very ellegant.

Still no internet however the marina management is planning to upgrade this service to include wi fi throughout the marina and a phone provider is erecting a tower here also so communication facilities are set to improve.