Sunday, 30 October 2016

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Thursday, 7 April 2016


Beautiful anchorages in secluded bays epitomizing the sailing ideal. Crystal clear water all the blues of the spectrum framed by deserted white sand beaches. Almost no one lives here so the beaches are freely accessible.

The more rugged east side of Hog Cay.

This is such a rare situation. We take for granted our freedom to access beaches in Australia but it's not so in the US or Bahamas where the waterfront and beaches are most often privately owned. Many wealthy owners only use their properties briefly during the high season and the rest if the year it's maintained by staff and remains off limits to the public.

Hog Cay is the pearl in the necklace, with a newly constructed Tiki Bar for cruisers and townsfolk. The Tourism Commission provided the funds for materials and the Duncantown residents and cruisers built the building. Edward a resident at Bonavista Cay, thatched the palm roof. There are many Avatars in and around the hut with the names of passing boats on them. We left one there for Taipan. Some well marked trails criss-crossing the island provide another diversion. Many goats roam the island so the underbrush is quite thin.

Duncantown is 3nm south and they use the beach here for recreation as the town is on one side exposed to the large ocean swells and on the other festering mangrove swampland. There is a salt pan which is farmed by the local populace but the population is slipping and is down to just 50 souls. Limestone and sand with little fresh water is not too conductive to agricultural pursuits. 

Tiki bar on the beach at Hog Cay.

Several islands in the group have abandoned buildings on them, testament to the vagaries of life in the hurricane prone Bahamas. Rebuilding is an expensive process requiring private barges to ferry supplies and materials in and that's before one even considers the labor problem. Insurance is prohibitively expensive. Edward from Bonavista Cay is determined to persevere and endeavors to eek out a living raising goats for the Nassau market.

Taipans Avatar at Hog Cay
The clandestine drug trade route between Jamaica and Nassau, is reputedly alive and well. The banks here are also the back door to Haitians trying to get into the Bahamas but that door is closing with an agreement by the American Coast Guard to conduct surveillance exercises in the area.

Fishing for Conch and Lobster is a major industry on these islands and surrounding banks during the season. The main port is Spanish Wells at the northern end of Eluthera though so their contribution to the economy of Duncantown is minimal. The season is drawing to a close for lobster but we managed to get a feed when Bernie off "Countess Cosel" took David hunting and gathering one afternoon at Bonavista Cay. They also got Conch, a big sort of sea snail. The jury is still out on Conch. Traditionally eaten deep fried it is not very appealing, however as a salad after soaking in lime juice and eaten raw it's pretty good. Further experimentation is pending.

Snorkeling around  these islands is relaxing and pleasant with great water clarity. There is very little marine life or coral comparatively but it's fun until a big Bull Shark comes by and shows way too much interest, forcing us to make a very graceless leap into the dingy which we were fortunately towing with us. The Bull Shark is considered by many experts to be the most dangerous shark in the world. There are many fishermen who regularly clean their catch in the anchorages, a practice known to attract sharks. There have been several shark attacks in the Bahamas with at least two deaths in the past 2 years but these reports are kept under wraps because the tourist dollar is so important here.

Bull Shark Photographed from the dingy after a rapid exit.
The Comer Channel was not so calm during our return crossing but with 500+ mm of water under us (a little more tide) we had a relaxing passage anyway. Georgetown is a good stop to re-provision, catch up with friends and refuel so now we are back.

Our time in the Bahamas is getting short and we are busy preparing the boat for the Atlantic crossing we plan to undertake, leaving Bahamas around mid May for Bermuda. Onward after Bermuda to Azores and Spain. 

Before we leave we hope to remove the generator to replace a leaking oil seal. Hopefully this will not prove too complicated. In Fremantle in 2004, we installed the Mase 3.5 KVA ourselves so maybe we still remember how it was attached! It has been a great little unit in spite of the fact that it needed some modifications to fuel and water system to iron out a few wrinkles but it's been running for over 4000 hrs now. For a single cylinder motor we think it's done pretty well to date and is worth the effort to repair. Only time will tell.

A Conch Shell Midden.... traces of the work of many fishermen over many years at Water Cay.
Ragged islands. Bahamas

Wednesday, 6 April 2016


Entering Puerto De Vita.
Dawn broke as we furled sails and prepared to enter Puerto De Vita. The Marina / Guarda Fronteria, Coast Guard eventually responded on 16 and we then communicated on 14. The channel is deep and well marked for a daylight entry.
The similarity to eastern Indonesia, without the volcanoes, was remarkable. Dry fields, a few people fishing, a pony cart and scrub. The Marina's escort boat met us at the fork where the channel divided, to lead us into the anchorage just off the marina, where we awaited the arrival of Ronaldo, the Doctor who first clears crew preparatory to arrival in the Marina. Once the medical clearance was given we entered the dock area. It's a stern or bow too mooring system. No side dock. Marin's staff assisted with securing us to the dock and we were soon visited by several officials and a little spaniel. The inspection was cursory and polite. 
One of the fancy vehicles in the Tourist area.

Entry price has soared just this week. From 25CUC to 75CUC. (App.A$100) each. So that was a shock given the fact that we are on limited, cash only, reserves. The other fee is 55CUC  (app US$63) is the Cruising Permit for the boat. The Marina is CUC0.75. / foot per day and includes water and electricity.

Two other yachts arrived just behind us. One from US and Mithril from UK. Given that we all needed to change money we teamed up with Mithril and shared a taxi to Guardalavaca, a big tourist resort area, where we exchanged US$ for $CUC and then adjourned to the Bar to get acquainted and exchange info.
Cuba. Approximately 620nm long.

The resort area was also very Indonesian! Friendly but basic. Pretty beach and lots of fat sunburned tourists laying about getting skin cancer and soaking up the all inclusive alcohol. We decided not to stay long and after a simple pizza meal we headed back to the boats. Taxis are pretty expensive. $20CUP each way. App. 15km. It was an ancient Lada and the fit was cosy. Given that the average local wage is only $20 US per month, taxi drivers are doing very nicely.
We discovered that the sand flies (noseeums) are ferocious at the marina, so fully covered or bug sprayed is the dress code.
An average street scene. Hougin. There are not many cars.

Saturday after assembling cables for power to keep refrigeration happy in our absence, we took a taxi to Hoguin, 35 km, to stay the night and planed to ease ourselves into travel mode and progress from there to Trinadad for a few days.
Everyday transport is horse or people powered.

Hoguin is a large, by Cuba standards, provincial city. Our Casa Particular was a short walk to the city square. The room was small but adequate. It was clean but the water didn't work so well and was cold. Nothing unusual for Cuba. There are very few buildings with glazing. Timber louvers keep most of the rain out I presume. They don't have bug screens, so travel with spray. Especially in this time of Zika Virus. There are no public reports of the virus here in Cuba and they are taking the threat very seriously. Evidenced by the smell of chemicals used to fumigate the residential areas. Our Casa was $25CUC and included breakfast however our hostess was ill at breakfast so we didn't feel inclined to eat with her. 
Don Quixote sculpture in Hoguin

Food in Hoguin is of various quality and prices are affordable, $12CUC to $20CUC will purchase  food and drinks for 2. Good food was hard to find and the price for very ordinary food was not much less than decent food. We didn't find any great food, that's not to say it's not available, just that it's hard to find. Cuba is not noted as an epicurean destination so leave your special requirements and fancy appetite at home. It's hard enough to purchase the basics in Cuba without looking for specialties.
Trinidads cobbles and architecture.

We wandered around the streets of Hoguin for a day but there was little to see or do. The town square is the center of activity and people watching seems to be the preferred entertainment. Having decided by mid afternoon that we had "done" Hoguin, we booked tickets on the overnight bus for Trinidad. UNESCO Recognized as a significant site architecturally and historically. 

The 600km bus trip, $26CUC each, commenced at 11.30pm so we didn't see anything. The road was atrocious, so even though the bus seating was reasonably comfortable, nothing could disguise the road conditions. 7 1/2 hours later as the sun rose we descended from the highlands into Trinidad.
People watching in Trinidad.

Our pre-booked Casa Particular had sent a taxi bike to pick us up so we managed to avoid the scammers trying to drag us off to some favored establishment of their own choosing. Our Casa was decent enough with good aircon, reasonable beds and a functional ensuite. We negotiated breakfast and had a quick rest before setting out for the day to explore Trinidad's cobbled streets and old Spanish Architecture, dating back to the early 1500s.  The Architecture, I'm sure, is important historically but getting a glimpse inside is tricky. The streetscape is all pretty much the same. Unless you happen to be staying in one of the buildings, they are not open to the public. Once again we spent the day wandering around the streets, people watching in the square, queuing at the bus station and the bank for several hours and generally filling in time. We did find a very good Restruant called El Dorado in a street just a little way from the Viazul bus station. Tasty food, good service and a nice local music quartet housed in a lovely old restored building.
Scenes from the rural areas.

We returned to Hoguin on the Viazul bus from Trinidad, an 8 hour trip during daylight, so we're able to see the countryside from its high vantage. The taxi trip from Hougin back to Resort Taipan was hairy! It was pouring with rain, the first rain for 6 months. The ancient Lada was definitely not roadworthy by my standards. The driver drove it as hard as it would go, skirting, at speed, great pools of water, pot holes, carts, cars and bikes, to narrowly avoid on coming vehicles. His command of English did not include the phrase "slow down!!!" Something I need to learn in every language before we next use a driver. Shaking and relieved we disembarked that treacherous jalopy and staggered gratefully aboard. The next two days we decided to take advantage of the dock facility so David could finish building and install the new anchor reverse switch. It's a complicated board with solenoids, fat cables and a prayer at start up!
And thats just the switching.

It works! The job took a couple of days but now we can haul stubborn chain out of the locker when it gets snagged and tangled on passage, previously a 2 man job as our anchor chain is accessed from below deck. 

Departure was a painless affair except for the ferocious sand flies at 7 am Friday morning. Back came the little dog and a couple of officials. They checked the boat a little more thoroughly, probably for stowaways, and then clearance to sail was given. We  were outbound by 8 am and an uneventful passage to the Southside anchorage at Ragged Island had us anchored in the Bahamas again by nightfall.

I have hesitated to mention all the horses. Horses are at work in Cuba, filling the role of car and tractor. We saw a few dilapidated ancient Russian tractors and one newish Chinese tractor but most of the haulage is done with horse or bullock carts. There are hundreds of horses pulling people around the streets. It's a cheap form of taxi here. The horses are mostly dejected and skinny. Harness is ill fitting and cobbled together from scraps of leather and plastic or webbing. Some had bits but many had chain wrapped around their nose. To many had ugly scars, evidence of heavy handedness. Not once did we see a horse offered a drink during the hot days, nor did we see any evidence of any facility for horses to drink from.

Out in the country the horses were marginally better off. I even saw one or two quite fat shiny horses but they were very scarce. It is the end of the dry season and end of tourist season so hopefully most of them will get an opportunity to rest and fatten up before the next tourist season.

One of the things I was most looking forward to in Cuba was the horse riding. I didn't go because I could not bring myself to get on one of those horses. I did however speak to a couple from Scotland who did find a horseback riding tour in Veradero which was well run with fat happy horses.
There are slim pickings in the stores.

Of all the tourists we spoke with. None would return to Cuba and most said the tourist brochures were wild exaggerations.
The prices have soured making Cuba a fairly expensive destination. This is such a pity because the Cuban people are friendly, resourceful and helpful. The political system has destroyed people's motivation and incentive. Casa Particular tourist accommodation has enabled some home owners to benefit and some private restaurants are benefiting from a loosening of the communist grip. Anyone touring Cuba should use these facilities to get the dollars into the community and not into the Party pocket.

Several well educated Cuban people we spoke to said Cubans were generally depressed. One, a psychologist, said she was expected to see 25 patients per day in her job and she couldn't help them. She could earn the same money working in a tourist stall without any of the stress. Cuba needs the embargo lifted but they need some real international aid to get the country functioning again. There is no agricultural equipment. Everything is broken. The once vast cattle ranches and sugar plantations are just ruins with rough grass and regrowth dotted with a few cattle and goats.
The government provides free education and free health care. The hospitals are very basic and they are critically short of drugs and supplies. The education system is also very basic judging by the standard of schools and the alleged paucity of books and basic school equipment.
Would I go back? No.

Until the regime in Cuba changes and allows individuals to benefit from their efforts, and better their standard of living through their own endeavor and industry, Cuba will remain a failed communist experiment.

Thursday, 17 March 2016


Time for an adventure! It's been a good while since we chose to cruise to a country with as many unknowns as Cuba provides. The most daunting of which is the total inability to get cash using our US or Australian cards. The 50 year old Embargo is still firmly intact and Australian bank, still in bed with Yank Banks, steadfastly refuse to deal with Cuba, so we have to take cash.
Georgetown via Comer Channel to Puerto De Vita Cuba. Return trip via the Ragged Islands.
This comes with a set of problems of its own. How much to take? Security. Do we need to have enough to cover unexpected emergencies like boat repairs or hospitalization. These questions are daunting enough to cause us to pause and reflect. We have travel insurance. We have boat insurance. ( Are they valid in Cuba?? )We are healthy and have visited more complicated places. I think we've gone soft since we've been languishing in the great US of A! We have probably also taken on board some of the widespread phobias of the average American, non travelers. So it's time to break out.
The word was out that The Rolling Stones are doing a free concert in Havana on the 25th of March just over a week away. Enough of an excuse! Let's go. Well we have neither of us ever been to a live concert so what better time and place to start!
Just like the brochures.
This morning at Oh dark hundred we pulled the anchor and followed our inbound track of the same date in 2014 when we first arrived in the Bahamas, heading south out of Georgetown through the cut. It was a spectacular morning, soft gauzy light gradually giving way to staggering azure blue as far as the eye could see. 

Our passage today via Comer Channel to the cays south and west of Long Island is about 64nm. The Comer Channel is only navigable by boats with our draft (7'2" or 2.2m) during a rising tide and in this case with at least 300mm (1') of tide. We had a minimum of 2.4m of water for about 4 of the 7 miles in the Channel. Sailing across the white sand bottom in the crystal clear water was a surreal experience. Taipans shadow was sharply defined on the bottom. Impossibly close.
After exiting the channel we turned south west towards the Water Cay for tonight's overnight stop.

Saturday, 12 March 2016


This is a test blog using the Iridium Go Satelite service.
The device has been installed aboard Taipan for a week now and we are testing capability. We hope to use the go to receive weather updates, text messages, phone calls in emergency and emails on a daily basis once we are offshore and out of mobile network range.
Stay tuned for info.

Wednesday, 9 March 2016


Tourist boat at St Augustine
So several months have flown by and many miles have been flown. Taipan stayed on a mooring at the St Augustine City Marina for nearly 2 months while we returned to Australia for the best wedding. Sam Medcalf married Melita Murdock in Albany WA on the 31st of December and we had to  be there. This involved several flights, starting from Jacksonville Florida to Dallas, Sydney then Perth. If you have to fly long haul make sure you get the A380.  We arrived in Perth just before Xmas and spend a lovely day with friends before heading to Albany for Mums 88th Birthday.
Great memories Mum

Sadly Mum passed away just three days later. The formalities took some time so we stayed on awhile before departing again for USA.

Another long flight.
Back to Florida on 1st Feb and we commenced recommissioning Taipan. Always takes a few days. Then there is provisioning. Another few days, made easier by the St Augustine Cruisers Shuttle. Eventually we were ready to start south. And none too soon, as the morning temperatures were only just above freezing.

One of the many local shrimp boats.

Snatching what looked like a decent weather window we bolted. It was  a little light and we did lots of motoring but that's fine because the motor kept the boat warm as we don't have a heater aboard. We did purchase an Electric mattress warmer and took turns off watch to deFrost in the bed!

We entered at Lake Worth 200 odd miles and uneventful passage later with no fish. The anchorage at lake Worth was OK but there is nowhere to get ashore so we headed on south down the waterway. From Lake Worth to Fort Lauderdale all the bridges are Bascule bridges so we had no mast height issues. We hit something pretty hard in the channel just south of Atlantic Bve Delray on the east side of the waterway. Some local boys in a big motor boat managed to drag us off after a lot of effort. Thanks to team "Yes" No damage but it was a pretty hard something down there ...  about 7 feet.
One of the prettier Bascule Bridges.

Our arrival in Fort Lauderdale was in some very windy weather so we picked up a mooring off the Las Olas Bridge, belonging to the City Of Fort Lauderdale Las Olas Marina. At $40 per night we were not planning to stay long. Next morning a typhoon went through and sank 2 boats about a mile away. It was ferocious but only lasted about 15 minuits. We were glad to be on the mooring. The anchorages are scarce and getting scarcer if the local authority has its way.
Capitalism on steroids in Fort Lauderdale.
After 2 days we moved  just north of the bridge and anchored at the end of Valencia Avenue. We spent a great night with old friends and circumnavigators Jim and Barbara Wallace at their home at Deerfield Beach. They spotted us on the mooring as they were returning from a historic race to Cuba.  Ovi, another friend saw us as he was running one morning so we caught up with him. "Silver Fin", Carl and Kathleen who we haven't seen since Malaysia were passing through town on their return from touring south America on a motor bike so they also called by to catch up, Small world. I think the boating world revolves around Fort Lauderdale though. We hired a car for a day to get some parts and have a bit of a look around. Its all canals, huge homes and massive boats. just miles and miles of it!
Carl, Kris, David and Kathleen

Waiting for weather and fixing stuff is pretty much what we did in Fort Lauderdale. On Tuesday 23rd of Feb it looked like a suitable day to cross the Gulf Stream and head to the Bahamas . We left at 10pm in some reasonable breeze with a forecast which was predicted "good for very salty sailors." Well that is obviously not us. We clung on all night in some very stiff noserly wind with gusts to mid 30s. Taipan was happy but her owners were wishing for something a little more sedate. By dawn we were 20+ miles south of West End and 65 miles from Fort Lauderdale so instead of beating onward to the Berries we decided to turn north and take a break. 
Taipan in Fort Lauderdale
The wind was predicted to go southerly which was more favorable but that hadn't happened and we were over it! So 3 hours later we arrived in West End Old Bahama Bay Marina and tied up in our first marina since September 2015. Well deserved we thought even though it was US$70 per night!!.

During that passage we were delivered of our 6th grandchild. Jason and Fern announced the arrival of Louis Paul. The produce beautiful babies!

Blowing dogs off chains in West End. Bahamas.
West End had us trapped in an up wind pen until the wind moderated because we couldn't get out even if wed wanted to. Wind blew hard straight out of the north but it was a washing machine out there. By Friday there was some moderation so we managed to maneuver Taipan out into the wind and escape South. The 135nm run overnight and into Nassau mid afternoon, was pleasant with some motoring when the wind dropped out. A nice yellow fin tuna in the bag to complete the passage. 

After spending a night in Nassau we headed out the following morning for an 80nm run Black Point. Another night at anchor and a good sleep before the final 55nm leg to Georgetown. David redeemed himself by catching 2 nice Mahi Mahi and a Barred Mackrel. Several got away but we were more than happy to have some nice fresh fish again.

Georgetown Regatta was well underway when we arrived and the weather was just glorious. We are happy to just sit back and soak up the scenery, catch up with a few old friends and enjoy the warmth.  There will undoubtedly be some odd jobs as well.

Port of Nassau

Sunday, 6 December 2015


Jacksonville sundown at the City Dock

Not a lot of water has passed under Taipan's keel recently and none of it has been clean! We languished in Fernandina Beach and enjoyed catching up with friends, met new people and enjoyed the hospitality of the Fernandina  Beach Sailing Club AGM and dinner. We fixed a few things as usual and finally dragged ourselves down the ditch, a little further south. Jacksonville a whole 20 miles south and 20 miles west up the St Johns River and back to the Jacksonville Landing. The City provide a free central city dock where you can pick up water, wi-fi and just enjoy the bright lights. It can get noisy but it's a nice changeand offers good bike riding oportunities. There are now good bike paths which take you round the river to Riverside on the western shore. Publixs. AT&T, Starbucks a few food outlets and banks.  There is a bike shop nearby and a new waterfront walk on the eastern side of the river. On Saturdays the Art Market is held under the Fuller Warren bridge. To the East over the main Street Bridge there is an easy ride down to San Marco, some nice shops and a Starbucks! 

Cindy and Bob some old friends from the River City Brewing Company Marina took is to St Augustine to collect some parcels we had directed there and we had a couple of social evenings with them. 


Veterans Day arrived with plenty of fanfare and a huge parade of veterans, floats children and vehicles of all description. We watched it pass by for over 2 hours. It was still coming. Now we know why everyone bought chairs!

Jacksonville’s Arena Marina. We are the only boat. Its free.

Then it was time to move on again.
One of the oldest Streets in USA is in St Augustine.

Intra-coastal Waterway. Fernandina to Jacksonville we know, and have done several times now, but the next leg is a new one, and with 65 feet of air draft and 7'2" of water draft we were a little apprehensive as we set off from Jacksonville to St Augustine. However, apart from an occasional grounding due to lack of concentration, it was fairly uneventful. There was good tide range so we were able to sneak under all the bridges without incident! We did have a slight hic-up when we realized the main engine was not spewing out as much water as it should be so we rolled out the sail and David did a bit of trouble shooting. Fortunately it was a very cold day and the engine wasn't over heating at all so we were able to just quietly tonk along enjoying the bird life and scenery. Once at anchor just north of St Augustine, David changed out the impeller which had spat out a few rubber blades and was the reason for the inadequate cooling water flow. Next morning back in business and into St Augustine.

The oldest wooden school house in the USA,

There are two big mooring fields and a marina so finding an anchorage was tricky. The first night we sat on the bottom for a while on the west side of the river, not a big drama, but annoying. Next night we crossed to the east side of the river and anchored just north of the bridge. It was fine there although there is a good current up to 3 knots during springs, at some periods of the tide.

 Beautiful “fish scale” detail on one of the historic homes in St Augustine. Florida.

We heard about the St Augustine Cruisers Net (they also have a Facebook group, Facebook site
) via Neil and Jeanette, some friends from Perth who we met in the Bahamas last year. They bought a boat here and are making their way back across the Pacific next year Thus we also learned there was to be a Thanksgiving cruisers pot luck. It was a huge event, with around 70 people off cruising boats attending. St Augustine is a gorgeous town but busy with tourists. 4 million per year ! Lots of tourists!? Lots to see.  Oldest town in USA. 1526 or near enough! The Spanish found it.


The Cruisers Thanksgiving Pot Luck was fantastic. Excellent traditional thanksgiving  fare and we met lots of people. We returned to Taipan after lunch with Neil and Jeanette from Echo Echo (Perth). After a cup of coffee, as they were about to leave, we noticed a boat dragging towards the low bridge which was very close to us. Neil and David in the two dinghies, rescued is as no one was on board. We tied it to Taipan. Had another drink... Or two.
We have been experimenting with making our own sparking Shiraz with the soda stream and it works great. They just bought a soda stream and so we had to have lots of samples!   Many more wines later and the owners came back... They gave us another bottle of red we drank that....Then another boat next to us dragged off so we rescued that. No one on board that one either. Tied it to Taipan. More wine! .......1.00am Neil and Jeanette finally left and the owners of boat tied to us were still partying elsewhere!  They got back about 2 am..... but we didn't wake up .....they were very sheepish in the morning and gave us another bottle of wine! Haven't drunk that , can't face wine today!!

View down to the deck from the mast head.

We caught the cruisers shuttle bus (see link to their web page for details Port of Call) one morning  and went driving all round town till about 2 pm. Got all the bits we needed and met lots more people. 

The weather has been a mixed bag. Windy ... Windy windy horrid out at sea so we decided to continue going south down "The ditch" a little further. We have been down the waterway from Fernandina beach to St Augustine and thought we could get to Canaveral.


The view from the mast head when I went up to check the instruments after the brush with Flagler Beach Bridge.

Our adventure was bought up short by the Flagler Beach bridge about 27 miles further south. We could not scrape under it with 64 feet on the board, we needed at least another inch to get the instruments under. Being neap tides now we can't get enough low tide to clear it even if we wait till dead low. Could have made it with springs last week. Darn. Turned round and wandered back to St Augustine. With a good track on the chart we were able to keep going well into the night. Had the whole waterway to ourselves after dark. Finally dropped anchor near Matamzas Inlet. Easy run the following day back to St Augustine. Now on a mooring waiting out another crappy forecast.

Well that's enough excitement for one post.

More Photos of St Augustine and Jacksonville 


Thursday, 5 November 2015

CAPTAIN HOOK FAILS FISHING 101. 5th November 2015

Pushing on south lighthouses still dominate every headland. The original Cape Henry light house was the first Light house authorized by the US government. 1792. The lighthouse was damaged by Confederate forces during the American Civil War then repaired by Union forces in 1863, who depended on the light for navigation. In the 1870s, following a lightning strike that caused large cracks in the structure concerns about the condition and safety of the old Lighthouse at Cape Henry  led to the construction of a new, 350 feet tall, lighthouse in 1881.

Cape Henry at the Entrance to Chesapeak Bay. The old and the new.

Our arrival into Rudee Inlet anchorage was awaited with great anticipation. Not the least because the weather rounding the Cape Henry Lighthouse was crappy. Not dangerous but just unpleasant. 
Our friend Walter aka "Marnie" lives in Virginia Beach and had offered to come pick us up and go do some shopping or whatever. After brief introductions to Mason and Donna, Walters friends who live on the lake, and to whom we were grateful for the use of their dingy dock. Then it was straight to the nearest Bed Bath and Table for a Mattress Warmer.... in Aus its know as an Electric Blanket. With that firmly within my grasp we filled a gas bottle and went out for a great dinner. Next day we again visited with Donna and Mason and then Walter took us to his amazing house C1630! where we dined on duck, expertly cooked  by master chef Walter!. We caught up with Trish, Walters sister who we had met in the Bahamas last year.
More photos of the Chesapeake Bay area 
Buildings adjacent to the Cape Henry lighthouse
Tuesday was shaping up for a suitable departure weather wise for a rounding of Cape Hatteras so we said our farewells, pulled out our anchor without snagging Walters old mooring and motored out the inlet. 
C 1630

After an uneventful 24 hours and a comfortable rounding of the Cape we were settling into our watches nicely until fate intervened to provide some excitement and a new cruising experience.
Well David was on watch and had a Rapala lure with two triple Gang hooks on it. He hooked a good size False Albacore ... Like a Bonito. Bloody awful eating... And was bemoaning all the effort involved to get it in. As he was lifting it up on the line, with the rod at the stern quarter, it suddenly got off and the lure flicked back and up, hitting David in the upper forehead. It went in a good way. About half an inch of the business end, including the barb, was well and truly engaged!
This isn't the original..... that's on the doctors wall!
Not much blood and not much pain, strangely. We were about 18 hours from Beaufort which is a detour of about 20nm from our course. Well he managed, with some assistance, to cut the barb off the rest of the gang leaving about 1/4 inch of the shank sticking out. Then he insisted that I put it back out backwards. Well I had some local anesthetic and a needle and syringe so I slid some down beside the hook. I don't know how much use it was but anyway ... Using all my strength... I don't know how he put up with it.... I tried to budge that hook to no avail. So then, multigrips firmly locked onto it, he tried! No! Couldn't budge it. Gave up. Took a couple of Panamax and a glass of red wine and went to bed! Couple of hours later it was a bit sore but we just motored on.... There was no wind.... Rounded Cape Lookout and headed into Beaufort NC the following morning. 
Luckily, when we came north a couple of months ago, we met Chris and Tippy Montleon in  Beaufort. They had directed us to their friends in Galesville, where we were so warmly welcomed. Well they were very happy to see us again, and ran down to take us to a clinic. The surgery wanted all sorts of personal details on pages of forms, then kept us waiting 2 hours only to tell David that they couldn't do it and that he should go to Hospital emergency.
Well... Chris phoned one of his old fishing mates and found the contact, nearby, of a doctor who has had lots of fish hook experience. He has a board on his surgery wall of hooks in all sizes and shapes that he has removed from various parts of past patients.

Tippy insisted I come to a girls lunch which she was expected at, while Chris took David off to the new doctor. An hour or so later and a lot more forms, it was out. He used another big needle which he slid down the shank and positioned over the barb, and then he withdrew it the way it went in. Clever. No stitches but a couple of closure tapes. Like stitches. He was surprised it was looking so go after 24 hours and a dirty rusty fishy hook in there. Asked what it had on it. David didn't know but I had used the trusty Butisin Pictrate again! Anyway he gave him some antibiotics and a tetanus shot and off the boys went to lunch so apart from kissing $300 goodbye there really wasn't much damage. Lucky it wasn't an eye!!
Moral of the story.....gaff the bloody fish before you try to lift it out of the water.!!!
I didn't mention that Beaufort North Carolina is a really big fishing destination. That weekend, for 3 days they hosted the final of some huge fishing competition. People who had qualified come from all over the world to charter great big game boats and compete. As we were entering Beaufort about 100 boats were heading out to catch that elusive Big One! I wonder if the Doctor got any more trophies for his Surgery wall!
Well the best bit was that Tippy and I had a great lunch and the girls were all good fun and interested in out travels. Another amazing coincidence.... Donna, one of tippy friends, runs a B&B in Beaufort and she said one of her regular clients and now a very good friend, comes from Perth and stays with them regularly. It turns out it was Chris Norman and his wife Bev, who we know from Perth. We had Taipan in a dock at the fishing boat harbor while their flash new catamaran Duplicity, was in the Fremantle Yacht club across the road. But anyway was so weird knowing yet another West Ozzie. We took Chris n Tippy to dinner at a nice little seafood place. Not expensive but very nice. With a few extra groceries we picked up along the way, we were back aboard  by 9.30. Very successful day all round really.
Friday, we had a good weather forecast light and motoring ...supposed to be.....but it became rougher and more uncomfortable as wind built... But warmer, thank goodness. We went straight through to Fernandina Beach arriving on Sunday.

We had a lot of dolphin around the boat for several hours off Frying Pan Shoals north of Beaufort, and although the half moonlight was not quite enough light, with the phosphorescence and the sound of their splashing and breathing it was pure magic. Lots of dolphins joined us again as we left Beaufort and in crystal clear blue water I spent some time on the bow photographing them. Impossible to get their out of water acrobatics though. They stayed with us for about 200 miles. Disappearing only for about ten min at a time then back spinning and jumping all round. They left when the wind dropped and we slowed down around Brunswick GA.
Altogether we were pleased to be back in northern Florida where we are once again warm.
Fernandina Halloween.