IRISH SAIL PAST. CORNWALL PREPARATIONS. June 22nd 2018

Audleys Castle  before the fog.

There was the ominous hum of a big motor out there in the murky gloom as we pulled the anchor. In the thickest fog we’ve ever seen we had to leave Portaferry with an outgoing tide.  The ferry was stationary, motor running, according to the AIS and there was no other traffic evident on the Radar. Taipan was whisked at 10+ knots the five miles down the channel via our incoming track and there was very little we could do about it except steer!!. Thank goodness for AIS and Radar, without which we could have been stuck there for several days. 

Lions Head Light after the fog!!

We had anchored at Audley’s Castle, Strangford Lough, en route from Islay, Scotland to Dublin. This was our second overnight stop on the Irish East Coast. The weather had been light and visibility good, until this morning. A long day followed, to arrive in Dun Laoghaire marina, just a short train ride from Dublin. The Three Festivals Tall Ships Regatta was on and we took the opportunity to visit the wharf to see the ships. 

Street art collage! Dublin

The waterfront mansions south of Dublin. Rich and famous. Enya has a house here.

Wicklow was the next and last stop in Ireland. What a welcome. The Sailing club was open and we were invited and made very welcome. Wickow hosts the Around Ireland Race which has become a very big event attracting international yachting names. The postman was at work on the wharf touching up his ship paintings. Wicklow is set in the most beautiful countryside and we sailed on down the coast admiring its beauty. The weather looked good for a crossing direct to Landsend UK so we continued through the night to make Penzance by evening the following day.

Paintings from the history of the Wicklow Wharf with the artist / postman 

The spectacular anchorage at the foot of the magnificent St Michaels Mount and a good nights sleep before pressing on the Saint Mawes an old favorite anchorage just across the River Fal. Here the St Mawes Sailing Club once again made us very welcome and we enjoyed many evenings socializing with the club members. Especially Glen! During our visit, the Golden Globe yachts came and went and it was exciting to participate in the festivities and meet the contestants.

Tradional Work Boats racing at Saint Mawes.

Cornish Working Boats race in St Mawes and Falmouth during the week. They're a spectacular sight with their colored topsail. These boats were preserved by an accident of history which saw the Cornwall authorities declare that endangered river Oysters could only be harvested in the River Fal using traditional Oyster boats. They must dredge under sail or oars. These boats were therefore preserved and have been elevated to racing status by aficionados. There are still working, sailing oystermen in Cornwall. 

Saint Just in Roseland Church.

Team Taipan at church

Barry called by in his dingy to introduce himself and we caught up with him for dinner then the following day we were taken on a tour of the area. St Just in Roseland Church, a 13th century Church set amongst beautiful gardens beside a peaceful tidal creek. Legend has it that Jesus landed at the site with Joseph. The church is on the site of a 6th Century chapel which served for 400 years until it was taken over by the Bishops of Crediton and Exeter. 

Fal River wildlife

Further up the Fal is the cottage where Churchill and Eisenhower worked out the D day landings, US, and Allied troops hid in the forest along the Fal prior to the landings and there are still the remains of their huts in the area. 

The famous cottage of Eisenhower and Churchills meetings

The Fal River headwaters, where once was a thriving town. The river silted and the population moved towards the coast. The narrow meandering tidal stream provides an ideal habitat for birds, waterfowl, and wildlife.  Returning to Saint Mawes we lunched at the Melinsey Mill, an old corn mill with interesting artifacts and excellent food.

Falmouth Waterfront.

Falmouth

Some days were spent at anchor across the river in Falmouth. This thriving regional center has loads of charm and a bustling waterfront. There are plenty of services for yachts with a huge population of boats moored, penned or hardstanding in the area. 

There are all types of watercraft in Falmouth.

David rebuilt the water maker with a new pump supplied from the UK and solenoids were tracked down to repair a faulty anchor windlass switch. We had the noisy Chartplotter fan replaced by the excellent team at Charity Taylor in Falmouth and we were at last ready to leave for France.

Saint Anthony Head farewell light. Early departure to cross the English Channel to France.

Islay to Falmouth St Mawes

GOLDEN GLOBE RACE.14th June 2018

Crossing the line. They're on the way to France

Don McIntyre and Sir Robin Knox-Johnston

Not the Golden Globe but the lead-up race, the SITraN Challenge left Falmouth on Thursday the 14th of June.  A big fleet of excited supporters followed the race competitors from Falmouth Haven Marina to St Mawes and then to the start line where, in a blaze of color, sails were hoisted and the real business of the challenge commenced. Sir Robin Knox-Johnston, once again at the helm of his 9.75m Suhaili, a traditional ketch and the winner, 50 years ago, of the Sunday Times Golden Globe Race, fired the shot signaling the race start.

Mark Sinclair Australia. Coconut.

We gave Istvan Kopar some Vegemite just to
give him a chance against the Aussies.

16 competitors will endeavor to get each other's measure and test the equipment installed to enable us, the viewing public, to follow their progress via tracker, and via satellite phone link with the organizers. We will be able to hear their individual stories as the Golden Globe challengers go south and then westward around the worlds 5 great capes before returning to France. They will encounter challenging southern ocean conditions in their small and very basic boats, without the benefit of any modern technology. No GPS, Autopilot, chart plotters, wind instruments, computers, watermakers, phones or digital cameras. Its back to wind up clocks, paper charts, sextant, typewriters and a good look at the sky for weather indications.

The dedication and hard work of many people, but especially Don McIntyre from Australia has seen this race re-enactment come to fruition. Sir Robin Knox-Johnston won this event 50 years ago in Suhaili an unassuming little timber double ender,  built in India, making him the first person to single-handedly and unassisted, sail a non-stop circumnavigation of the globe. The rest of the fleet either failed to finish, retired or died in the attempt.

Parade of Sail

Saint Mawes Sailing Club hosted a cocktail party at which a small crowd of people we introduced to the participants and Sir Robin presented each of the competitors with a fruitcake, not to be consumed before rounding Cape Horn. Cape Cake. This was a fun evening and we were lucky enough to score an entry and mingle with the intrepid and interesting sailors and their support crews.

Suhaili with Sir Robin at the helm after firing the start gun.

Western Australias Kevin Farebrother.

For two days prior to departure, the organizers hosted open days and the public were able to visit the docks for a closer inspection of the yachts. For those lucky few of us, we were also able to see inside the boats for a first-hand look at the inner workings. And I have to say there was not much. These are all old boats, with the exception of Abilash Tomys boat which is a replica of Suhaili, purpose built in India for the race. They’re all full keel boats designed before 1988. They were bursting at their little seams with food and supplies for the adventure. There seemed to be little room for the occupant but no doubt as time passes the interiors will empty out. They will never be spacious though.

Kevin Farebrother heads to France for
Western Australia.

We will be watching the website at goldengloberace.com for updates and news as the fleet countdown to the start in Les Sables-d’Olonne France on the 1st of July.

A farewell wave from Robin as Taipan turns to return to Falmouth

SCOTLAND WESTERN ISLES AND WHISKY. 29th May 2018

Pulladobhraine

Returning to Taipan and with the load of provisions stowed away we enjoyed the meal at the Waypoint Restaurant at Oban Marina. This is a well run and friendly marina with a free ferry service to Oban. Very accommodating indeed. After filling with water and fuel at the dock we headed 7nm south to Pulladobhraine, a tiny tight little spot nestled amongst islets. Sentijn were there too so a reunion was in order. Birthday time. Davids. A celebration was held with the Sentijn crew aboard Taipan. In deference to his old age, he received a Winchrite. To be picked up on the south coast somewhere.

The Ocean Cruising Club Gathering was to commence on Saturday with a Dinner at the pub in Craobh Haven and as the Currin family had a mooring available we were invited to pick it up. However, the weather forecast was lousy so we decided to go into the marina. £37 per night! What a fun weekend we had though. Australian boats “Diomedea” with David and Andrea McKay and Jim and Paula Holland on “Freydis” whom we hadn’t met before, but did pass in the Caledonian Canal last season. There was approximately 30 members present and Simon and Sally Currin hosted a great Sunday BBQ at their home overlooking Asknish Bay. We also caught up with old friends Bill and Jane McLaren “Vagrant” who we met previously in Shetland and in the Caledonain Canal. Bob Shepland gave a wonderful talk in the afternoon about a recent ski and climbing trip to South Georgia. What a legend!!

Loch on Dura 

These stomes form the beaches!

Acharnarnich Bay provided anchorage for our first night on leaving Craohb Haven. Tucked into a nook at the bottom of the peninsular in lovely calm weather it was another delightful spot. On the morning of the 22nd a wind shift caused a change of plan and we followed Sentijn through the notorious Gulf of Corryvrecken, also called the Great Race. The water races through this narrow gap causing some pretty wild whirlpools and overfalls. Of course, we didn’t see any because we got the tide right!!

The west coast of Jura is very exposed to the Atlantic Ocean and the volcanic nature of the rock formations along with the long gone ice age. Allegedly the area was once under 2000 feet of ice. (not so sure about that though) give rise to some spectacular geological formations with numerous caves and raised beaches. There are vast areas of cobbles. Round stones of every size with absolutely zero vegetation. In Loch Tarbert, ashore from the anchorage, we found the Loch formed by a rock cill covered with the debris from a melted glacial event and forming a dam wall. A nesting area for several bird species and a very dramatic mountainous and absolutely remote setting. The area is reminiscent of Tasmania’s south-west wilderness and the Port Davy area, with less vegetation.

This is one of the peaks they climbed!!

Work had to resume next day. it being necessary to recommission the water maker. It has been pickled for 2 years but with ocean passages planned and some south coast chandlers en-route it was decided now was a good time to activate it in case we need any parts. After wrestling with leaks in tight places the water maker is back in business and making water to spec. 60lt per hour. 

Paps of Jura

From Loch Tarbert we sailed south and east again around to Craighouse Bay. The home of Jura Distillery. The little town was packed with runners as the Fells Race was due to start next morning. This annual run involves over 300 runners and the course includes the 7 Paps of Jura, a 28 kilometers run and a climb of 2378 meters. The Paps of Jura are mountains of shale. They require the runners to crawl up and skid and jump down. Grueling to say the least. The first runner completed the circuit in just 3 hours and 20 minutes. They were all looking a little battle scared on their return.

Theyre off.

The easterly wind picked up and the anchorage was looking a little dubious so we chose to sail south-east 10nm to the north-west corner of Gigia. This was an overnight stop only but a pretty location. Next day a 20 mile run in blissful conditions saw us anchored up for the day at Laphroaig Distillery on Isla. Isla is probably the whiskey distillery capital of Scotland. With its many famous distilleries attracting ferry loads of visitors daily. 

Jura Distillery

The very pretty anchorage at Craighouse.

Time marches on and it's nearing that time when we can go back into the Schengen Area so we need to be heading south. This fabulous weather won't last forever. Our next passages will take us east of Ireland and on to the south coast of the UK once again before crossing to France. So check back again soon.

Taipan at Laphroaig Whisky Distillery

MORE PHOTOS OF SCOTLAND

NORTHUMBERLAND ROAD TRIP. 16th May 2018

Castle Stalker

Departing the Caledonian Canal in early May we sailed 19nm south, down beautiful Lock Linnhe past Corran Point Narrows and Light to Dallens Bay behind Shuna Island, dropping anchor in 6 m on mud on a spectacular Scottish afternoon. 

In company with Sentijn we set off to do a circuit of the island Castle Stalker. Privately owned and not open to the public except at certain times during the summer, it sits on a tiny island in Loch Laich. With enough tide it is possible to motor around it in the dingy. Castle_Stalker

Corran Point Light

Next morning a 27nm trip south and west down the Sound of Mull to Tobermory. Tobermory is the main town on the Isl of Mull. Some provisioning was required and some internet!. 

Tobermory

Moorings for the first night then a night at anchor before heading back down the Sound of Mull to Duart Castle where we anchored and went ashore to check out the 13th Century home of Maclean Clan. Bought back from a ruin in 1911 it is one of the last remaining privately owned Castles in Scotland and is the home of the Clan Chief himself. This restored castle is open to the public and during our visit the road was closed so we had the place pretty much to our selves. 

Duart Castle

After the Duart Castle visit we continued 7nm to Oban Marina where we picked up another mooring and packed to leave on a road trip to visit Andrew and Christine in Northumberland.

The Sound of Mull

Normally a 5 hour trip we managed to spend over 9 hours on the road but did divert to the Kelpies and the Falkirk Wheel

Kelpies are huge Stainless Steel clad sculptures of horses heads. I watched them being built online some years ago and had resolved to try to see them. They are spectacular.

The Falkirk wheel is a form of boat lift. The revolving structure transports boats up or down at Falkirk to get vessels from the Forth and Clyde Canal to the Union Canal. Its the only one of its kind in the world.

Alnwick Castle

Northumberland provided numerous opportunities to spot Castles once again. The Bamburgh_Castle was just down the road and Alnwick_Castle 20 minutes drive inland. Both are magnificent but crawling with tourists so we enjoyed them from afar. Lindisfarne_Castle on Holy Island was also close by but its still covered in scaffolding so we passed.

A short drive north back into Scotland and on to the port town of Eyemouth where we found the sculptural monument dedicated to the memory of those lost on the 14th of October 1881. About the sculpture

Bambough Castle

The countryside is bursting with spring color and we spent the day meandering around the Scottish border towns and villages enjoying the scenery.

Hospitality at Frosts Static was exceptional as usual and we were sad to leave after almost a week.  Time to head north again along the bonnie bonnie banks of Loch Lomond and the Highlands, back to Taipan in Oban.

Still a little snow on the high bits!

Ocean Cruising Club gathering is in just a few days at Craohb Haven.

MORE PHOTOS FROM SCOTLAND AND NORTHUMBERLAND.