Sunday 31 December 2006

XMAS CATCHUP WITH FRIENDS IN LANGKAWI 2006

Magic Taipan Tweed rafted up for Xmas.
Penang was an exciting city adventure after the more remote areas of Indonesia. We felt we were really being immersed in Asian culture and loved it. Sharing the experience with first timers Pam and Jon added to the excitement. Too soon it was time to head north to Langkawi. 


Malaysian Fishing boats


Its only about 65nm so we day sailed it after leaving Tanjong City Marina early, with the current. Ever watchful for nets as we left the island we headed offshore to Langkawi. Sailing again being a relative term.. ...there wasn't much wind.

The 104 Islands of the Archipelago of Langkawi are situated in the Andaman Sea roughly 10 miles off the Malaysian coast. Only 4 of the islands are inhabited and they are a very geologically diverse group. Soaring limestone cliffs and white sandy beaches to mangroves and monkeys. Freshwater lakes and the  wonderful UNESCO Global Geo Park with its caves and rivers and the Cable Car and Sky Bridge on the western end of Langkawi Island takes you to the top of Mt Gunung for a fabulous view over Telaga Harbour and the Island. The cable car starts in the Oriental Village at the foot of the mountain and here too are a number of attractions.

Anchorage near the Princess lake.

Langkawi is  part of the state of Kedah and adjoins Thailand. The border is very close on the northern side. There are many excellent anchorages around the islands and some excellent cruising between the islands.

You can sit on the deck and the fish will nibble your feet!
We chose to meet for Xmas at The Lake of the Pregnant Maiden. A fresh water lake just off the shore. A lot of tourist boats come here every day to bathe in the lake, feed the macaque monkeys and let the fish in the lake eat the dead skin off their feet. Charming!. However theres a nice anchorage just south of here in a spectacular secluded channel and enough room for the three boats and away from the wake of the speed boats. Tweed, Magic and Taipan rafted up for Xmas. 

Lake access.

Much preparation both aboard in respective galleys and ashore where preparations were made to have the big morning breakfast cook up. Xmas day saw the whole traditional shebang! Pressies, Champagne brunch on the beach and then the big traditional roast Turkey and trimmings on board Taipan in the evening. Great fun and feasting.


On new years eve we sailed up to Kuah where we anchored off the big Al-Hana Mosque. It has the second loudest speakers in Asia calling the faithful to prayer five times a day so we didn't anchor in too close.


There were various traditional celebrations were taking place in town. The annual Taoist vegetarian festival and fire walking. Deities are walked over the coals to cleanse them for the coming year. 

Kris Daun and Pam at the fire before the walkers.
The preparation of the fire was a day long event performed by specialists. They tested the fire themselves during the process and once it was deemed ready the walkers went a walking. 

David in the Fire... sorry its really blurry!!

Next thing we know David was invited to be one of only two Ferang to walk the fire. Amidst huge applause he did it and claimed not a singe. The trick seems to be in the preparation of the charcoal coating on top of the hot coals. Walking carefully not digging in the toes. It was pretty impressive.
Officially... quote
"For the fire walkers, they must really be ritually clean. No persons in mourning can perform the fire walk! As explained by the devotee, they have cross over ill luck and usher in good luck. Fire, as is understood, overcomes impurity and repels evil influences. Thus the Taoist Purification Rituals provides worshipers and devotees a way to free themselves from evil influences."


Kuah's Wednesday night market is a yachtie institution.
After his fire walking exercise everywhere David went in Kuah he was recognised as some sort of champion by the locals. Really quite fun. 

From here it was a short sail to Rebak Island Marina. One of the nicest marinas in Malaysia and it has a good haul out facility. The beautiful resort on the Island allows yacht crews to use all the facilities including beautiful pools. Its isolated being on an island so wise to bring everything you need with you for any boat work. We stayed a few days and had a great New Year Celebration  catching up with many of the Sail Indonesia Fleet. Johny and Shelly off Uteika provided the music and there was much revelry. 

Cable Car and Sky Bridge.

Telaga harbour is just a few miles north of Rebak and it was out next anchorage. Here we rented a car with Magic. We had said farewell to Tweed in Rebak.  Together we did a quick tour to the Geo Park including the Cable Car and Sky Walk. 


Telaga from the mountain. We anchored inside the man made islands.
The team at the Sky Bridge

From Telaga we headed on around the island to The Hole in the Wall. A very narrow passage leading into a river system. Here is some great dingy exploring and we did it all. Up and down creeks and in and out of mangroves. Spotting monkeys, wild dogs, even the rubbish dump! Theres a floating restaurant near the anchorage and an eagle feeding exhibition for the regular passing tourists a couple of times a day. So plenty to keep busy.


Taipan leaving The Hole in the Wall.
From here is was back around to Kuah for some provisioning and plans made to head further north to Thailand.


Some more pictures from Kuah.