I left you with the news that we were headed from Morea to Tahiti to commence departure planning, implying that we were heading to Australia. This was definitely the plan at the time
So much has already been written about the difficulties encountered around the world during the pandemic but we've been fortunate to be in French Polynesia throughout. We were lucky to not be separated in different countries when I had to fly back to Western Australia in January and then encountered difficulties with my return due to a Visa mix up. An injury forced us to rush to Tahiti from Nuku Hiva, causing us to miss the Tuamotos, a vast cruising area of atolls to the east of Tahiti.
Subsequent lockdown in Papeete coincided with my back injury recovery and thus didn't inconvenience us much at all. We were able to fit in annual bottom maintenance on the hard before the end of lockdown. We were ready to head out as soon as it was announced that travel within the Archipelago was permitted.
Our first destination was Moorea, just a 15nm west. Then our promised return to Tahiti. By now French Polynesia was totally CV19 free. Everything was normal except the country was closed to the world. Destinations to the west remained closed but there were promising signs of Fiji opening up to yachts. So we decided to wait it out. With the weather particularly unfavourable because the big southerly systems heading well north this year we were pleased we did. Watching the progress of some boats which chose to head directly to Aus was enough to convince us that waiting was the better option. Added to the long sail, Australias forced Quarantine for all international arrivals without any consideration of sea time was another reason for delaying our departure.
Australian Border Force regulations count sea time from the last port but Health Authorities in each state has been given the power to impose their own rules. Their stupidity would choke a horse!! One couple spent 35 days alone at sea, nonstop from Tahiti (COVID Free for 2 months), and were forced to quarantine in a Queensland hotel for 14 days. This was not an isolated incident. The rules were not applied consistently and occasionally we would hear of sailors who were not forced to quarantine on arrival. The application of the rules seems indiscriminate which is also very annoying.
So here we are, still in French Polynesia, which has opened borders and has CV cases rising. Were are not worried about that so much, as we are fortunate to be able to keep contact to a real minimum. Huahine is located 86nm NW of Morea and we made the overnight passage arriving on July 5th Huahine has a population of only 6000. There is an excellent supermarket and we try to load up and stay on anchor somewhere remote for weeks at a time.
Our favourite bay, Avea, is at the southern end of the island and it has a long white sandy beach with a few houses and a resort, La Mahana, which also welcomes yachties.... (we don't frequent it now the tourists are back.) The entire island is surrounded by fringing reef providing excellent protection from swell. There's a road right around and not a lot of traffic so maybe the bikes will come out soon. Within the bay and only meters from Taipan is some satisfactory snorkelling in warm clear water where we can happily while away several hours every day.
Just 30 miles west is a double island with an enclosed reef Raiatea and Tahaa offer a little more facilities with a couple of marinas and boatyards. There are airports out of most islands except Tahaa which is only a short boat ride from Raiatea airport. A lot of charter boats operate out of Raiatea. From Raiatea to Bora Bora its only 16nm but we've not ventured there yet. It's not a very cruiser friendly destination. No anchoring and quite steep fees for the moorings.
Huahine like most islands has its ancient stone ceremonial sites called Marae. On an afternoon drive with some new friends we met in the resort before the tourists were allowed back we visited some of these sites. They are quite different from the sites in Tahiti. It's incredible to think these huge stones were assembled with no machinery. Lots of slaves I think!. Aside from the Maraes we also visited the Rum distillery in Fare the only town on the island. Chocolate Rum!! Yum
For now, we remain in Huahine and wait to see how the rest of the world, particularly Australia and the countries to the west of us, Cook Islands, Tonga, Fiji, New Caledonia and Vanuatu, handle the CV situation. Cyclone season commences on Nov 1st which means we have to head directly to Australia or back East and north. Maybe as far as the Marquesas again.
Watch this space.
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